"Mike Resnick - Between the Sunlight and Thunder" - читать интересную книгу автора (Resnick Mike)managed to find a pride of lions on a kill, and to see some cheetahs, which are quite rare in these
parts. In the afternoon, we saw literally thousands of elephants, as well as 30 or 40 other species of mammals (as well as one of the lions from the morning, carrying a buffalo leg in her mouth as proudly as a puppy carries a toy). It's a damned good thing we did, too, as I deeply resented any time spent away from that suite. Dinner was freshly-caught bream, kudu in cream sauce, and good old hot fudge sundaes. I'm a teetotaler, but Carol tells me the wine was superb. September 9: Another morning game run, and the elephant and buffalo were so numerous than I was beginning to feel jaded. Then we got into a van and were driven some 50 miles to the Victoria Falls Hotel in Zimbabwe, where we picked up the luggage we had stored there, checked into a room, and promptly slept the afternoon away. (All that luxury exhausted our systems, I guess.) We woke up just in time for their nightly spectacular, a lavish pageant of native dances, which turned out to be more authentic and less tourist-oriented that we had feared. September 10: We stopped by a native crafts village, not knowing quite what to expect, and were pleasantly surprised to find that it, too, was more educational than tourist-oriented. >From there we went to the Falls, truly one of the wonders of the world. The Zambezi River was the lowest it's been in 40 years, which actually was to our benefit, as when the river is high the Falls create such a spray that you can't make out the features, let alone photograph them. We took the much-hyped Sundowner Cruise in the afternoon. Very disappointing, if you're not heavily into booze. The boat never got near the Falls (or anything else worth seeing), and most of the passengers were three sheets to the wind before the cruise even started. September 11: We took a noontime flight to Hwange National Park, where we were escorted to the Hwange Game Lodge, perhaps half a star down in luxury from the Chobe Game Lodge. Though we manager why; he replied that it was sitting empty, he had recognized my name on the guest list, he had read Ivory and Paradise and Adventures, and since I was obviously on a research trip, he hoped that I would remember him kindly when I got around to writing a novel about Zimbabwe.) Our guide was a young man named Mark, who asked what we would like to see that afternoon. Well, I said, giving him what I thought would be a totally impossible task, we haven't yet seen sable, roan, kudu, or rhino. Within 45 minutes we had seen them all, plus a couple of hundred elephants and some exceptionally rare eagles. This is some park, this Hwange. It's the largest in Zimbabwe, and has just about every species of mammal you could wish for. It's also paved -- something that I thought existed nowhere outside of South Africa's Krueger National Park -- and the rangers have created a number of huge, artificial water holes, so that the game doesn't migrate. The park is immaculate -- you would swear they mow and rake it every day -- and except for Tanzania's Ngorongoro Crater, we have never seen such a large number and variety of animals in one place. Dinner (eland and impala in exquisite sauces) was superb, as were all the various services provided by the lodge, and it is our conclusion that as luxurious as the Block lodges in Kenya are, the Sun chain in Zimbabwe -- consisting of Hwange, the Victoria Falls Hotel, the Monomatapa, the Montclair, the Troutbeck Inn, and half a dozen others -- is even moreso. The staffs are courteous and expertly-trained, the food is world-class, and the accomodations are usually equal to anything you can find in New York or London. For those of you who want to see Africa in absolute luxury, where the words "rough it" do not exist, just mosey down to Zimbabwe and make the circuit of Sun hotels. September 12: Two more fabulous game runs, three more fabulous meals, and a lot of loafing in our suite. After dinner we walked out to a spotlighted waterhole about a quarter-mile away, climbed up to a bar that was perched on stilts overlooking it, and spent the next couple of hours watching and photographing an endless procession of animals as they came down to drink. |
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