"Mike Resnick - Between the Sunlight and Thunder" - читать интересную книгу автора (Resnick Mike)circumstance, since they eat insects), this was the first time we ever shared our quarters with a snake.
(I don't know if he ate insects, but he certainy ate lizards.) Our hosts were Jeff and Veronica Stutchbury. Jeff is quite famous in these parts, having been the very first game warden at the South Luangwa Valley National Park in Zambia, and has had numerous articles and photographs published in wildlife journals. Their three sons also make a living from wildlife, one as a photographer, one as a painter, and one as a documentary filmmaker. Jeff was probably the most knowledgable guide we've ever been out with; he was unquestionably the most eccentric. He found beauty in every living thing, knew the natural history of everything we saw, and had the attention span of a 9-week-old puppy. Some game runs never got more than 500 yards from camp, as Jeff would find an exotic tree and explain its workings for hours; others would take us far afield and run for four or five hours, driving Veronica and her kitchen staff crazy. Jeff and his associate, David, never went anywhere without their rifles, which, they explained, were never used against game but were reserved for poachers. (Mana Pools is the park where most of the Rhino Wars have occurred: so far they've killed over 150 Zambian pochers in two years. Unfortunately, they're breaking about even: one poacher per lost rhino. Since they've only got about 2,000 black rhinos left in the whole country, and there are ten million hungry Zambians across the Zambezi River, the mathematics of the situation don't look promising.) September 17: We took a boat down the Zambezi to the one sight Carol has always wanted to see: a colony of nesting carmine bee-eaters. Even I, a non-birder, couldn't help but be impressed by 10,000 colorful birds flocking and nesting in thousands of holes along the high banks of the river. Then, when it was time to return for breakfast, Jeff decided to take a little walk. Around an island. A 5-mile-in-circumference island. We ran into buffalo and kudu and elephant, and got home just before noon. I thought Veronica was going to kill him, although he does this every three or four days and she really ought to be used to it by now. (In the States, he'd be the kind of guy who walked down the was so upset when he finally showed up.) One of the guests was an elderly lady from Texas, who had come to Zimbabwe to judge a cattle show, and decided to see a little of the country before leaving. If she was interested in anything beside cattle and barbeque sauce, she kept it a secret. She continually walked away from camp on her own (and this camp was surrounded by more wild animals than any within memory), she wore sweaters and panty-hose in 98-degree weather, and she complained non-stop. Finally her long-suffering companion simply locked her in her cabin for the afternoon, and a golden silence descended upon the rest of Chikwenya. September 18: We were a little late arriving at the landing strip -- elephants blocked our way for half an hour -- but the plane waited for us, dropped us off at Lake Kariba, and from there we caught a flight back to Harare, where this time Meikles Hotel honored our voucher. It had been excactly three weeks since we were there, and the change was electrifying: all the jacarandas were in bloom, and the whole city was a riot of spring color. (Yes, spring: this is south of the Equator.) I celebrated getting away from our snake and our outdoor plumbing by taking two showers, donning a coat and tie, and having Lobster Thermidor at the Bagatelle. September 19: This morning we picked up a car and driver for the remainder of our stay in Zimbabwe. The car was a semi-new Mitsubishi; the driver was Lazarus, a somber type who could find something depressing about winning the Irish Sweepstakes. We drove from Harare to the Inyanga Mountains in the east of the country, and as we began ascending them the fog closed in around us to the point where we could barely see ten yards ahead. We finally reached the Montclair Hotel at about noon, checked in, and decided to spend the rest of the day loafing and reading rather than driving on narrow, winding mountain roads with almost no visibility. The Montclair is an elegant English-style hotel, with a dart room, a billiard room, a gambling casino, a riding stable, tennis courts, |
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