Yikes!
Here's a story leading off this so-called cutting edge anthology
that could have been published (minus the naughty language)
anywhere in the science fiction field in the last forty years.
And by that I mean just about any magazine or anthology—or
a number of same outside the field. I could see this one in the Saturday
Evening Post in 1968, for crissakes. What gives? I'll
tell you what gives: this story is great fiction today, forty years
ago, or forty years in the future. Great fiction transcends any definition of
cutting edge or New Wave. Or genre labels. Or any other kind of
baloney. Dan Simmons is well known to you all, or should be. He is the author
of Hyperion, The Fall of Hyperion, The Song of Kali, and
many other sf and horror novels. He's won numerous
awards, including the Bram Stoker Award, the World
Fantasy Award, and the Hugo Award, and also has conquered the
spy thriller and suspense fields. He's
also responsible for the inclusion of one of the other great stories in this book, as
you shall see. But that's later; for now: enjoy the hell out of
the following.
On K2 with Kanakaredes
Dan Simmons
The
South Col of Everest, 26,200 feet
If
we hadn't decided to acclimate ourselves for the K2 attempt by secretly climbing to the eight-thousand-meter mark
on Everest, a stupid mountain that no
self-respecting climber would go near anymore, they wouldn't have caught us and we wouldn't have been forced to make the real climb with an alien and the rest
of it might not have happened. But we did and we were and it did.
What
else is new? It's as old as Chaos theory. The best-laid plans of mice and men and so forth and so on. As if you have
to tell that to a climber.
Instead
of heading directly for our Concordia Base Camp at the foot of K2, the three of us had used Gary's nifty little
stealth CMG to fly northeast into the
Himalayas, straight to the bergeschrund of the Khumbu Glacier at
23,000 feet. Well, fly almost straight to the glacier; we had to zig and zag to stay under HK Syndicate
radar and to avoid seeing or being seen by that stinking prefab pile of
Japanese shit called the Everest Base Camp
Hotel (rooms US $4,500 a night, not counting Himalayan access fee and
CMG limo fare).
We
landed without being detected (or so we thought), made sure the vehicle was safely tucked away from the icefalls,
seracs, and avalanche paths, left the
CMG set in conceal mode, and started our Alpine-style conditioning climb to the South Col. The weather
was brilliant. The conditions were
perfect. We climbed brilliantly. It was the stupidest thing the three of us had ever done.
By late on the third afternoon we had reached the South
Col, that narrow, miserable,
windswept notch of ice and boulders wedged high between the shoulders of Lhotse and Everest. We activated our little smart
tents, merged them, anchored them hard to ice-spumed rock, and keyed them white
to keep them safe from prying eyes.
Even on a beautiful late-summer Himalayan evening such
as the one we enjoyed that
day, weather on the South Col sucks. Wind velocities average higher than those
encountered near the summit of Everest. Any high-climber
knows that when you see a stretch of relatively flat rock free of snow,
it means hurricane winds. These arrived on schedule just about at sunset of that third day. We hunkered
down in the communal tent and made soup. Our plan was to spend two
nights on the South Col and acclimate
ourselves to the lower edge of the Death Zone before heading down and flying on to Concordia for our
legal K2 climb. We had no intention of
climbing higher than the South Col on Everest. Who would?
At least the view was less tawdry since the Syndicate
cleaned up Everest and the South Col, flying off more than a century's worth of expedition
detritus—ancient fixed ropes, countless tent tatters, tons of frozen human
excrement, about a million abandoned oxygen bottles, and a few hundred frozen corpses. Everest
in the twentieth century had been the
equivalent of the old Oregon Trail—everything that could be abandoned had been,
including climbers' dead friends.
Actually, the view that evening was rather good. The Col
drops off to the east for about four thousand feet into what used to be Tibet
and falls
even more sharply—about seven thousand feet—to the Western Cwm. That evening,
the high ridges of Lhotse and the entire visible west side of Everest caught the rich,
golden sunset for long minutes after the Col moved into shadow and then the
temperature at our campsite dropped about a hundred degrees. There was not, as
we outdoors people like to
say, a cloud in the sky. The high peaks glowed in all their eight-thousand-meter glory, snowfields burning
orange in the light. Gary and Paul lay in the open door of the tent,
still wearing their therm-skin uppers, and
watched the stars emerge and shake to the hurricane wind as I fiddled and fussed with the stove to
make soup. Life was good. Suddenly
an incredibly amplified voice bellowed, "You there in the tent!"
I almost pissed my thermskins. I did spill the
soup, slopping it all over Paul's sleeping bag.
"Fuck," I said.
"God damn it," said Gary, watching the black
CMG—its UN markings glowing and powerful searchlights stabbing—settle gently onto small boulders not
twenty feet from the tent.
"Busted," said Paul.
Hillary
Room, Top of the World, 29,035 feet
Two years in an HK floating prison wouldn't have been as
degrading as
being made to enter that revolving restaurant on the top of Everest. All three of us
protested, Gary the loudest since he was the oldest and richest, but the four
UN security guys in the CMG just cradled their standard-issue Uzis and said nothing until the vehicle had
docked in the restaurant airlock-garage and
the pressure had been equalized. We stepped
out reluctantly and followed other security guards deeper into the closed and darkened restaurant even more
reluctantly. Our ears were going crazy. One minute we'd been camping at
26,000 feet, and a few minutes later the
pressure was the standard airline equivalent of 5,000 feet. It was painful,
despite the UN CMC's attempt to match pressures while it circled the
dark hulk of Everest for ten minutes.
By the time we were led into the Hillary Room to the only
lighted table
in the place, we were angry and in pain.
"Sit
down," said Secretary of State Betty Willard Bright Moon.
We sat. There was no mistaking the tall, sharp-featured
Blackfoot woman in the gray suit. Every pundit agreed that she was the single
toughest and most interesting personality in the Cohen Administration, and the
four U.S. Marines in combat garb standing in the shadows behind her only added
to her already imposing sense of authority. The three of us sat, Gary closest to the
dark window wall across from Secretary Bright Moon, Paul next to him, and me farthest away from the
action. It was our usual climbing pattern.
On
the expensive teak table in front of Secretary Bright Moon were three blue dossiers. I couldn't read the tabs on
them, but I had little doubt about
their contents: Dossier #1, Gary Sheridan, forty-nine, semi-retired, former CEO of SherPath International,
multiple addresses around the world,
made his first millions at age seventeen during the long lost and rarely lamented dot-corn gold rush of yore, divorced (four times), a man of many passions, the
greatest of which was mountain
climbing; Dossier #2, Paul Ando Hiraga, twenty-eight, ski bum, professional
guide, one of the world's best rock-and-ice climbers, unmarried; Dossier #3, Jake Richard Pettigrew, thirty-six, (address: Boulder, Colorado), married, three children,
high-school math teacher, a good-to-average
climber with only two eight-thousand-meter peaks bagged, both thanks to Gary
and Paul, who invited him to join them on international climbs
for the six previous years. Mr. Pettigrew still cannot believe his good luck at having a friend and patron
bankroll his climbs, especially when both Gary and Paul were far better
climbers with much more experience. But
perhaps the dossiers told of how Jake, Paul, and Gary had become close friends as well as climbing partners over the past
few years, friends who trusted each other to the point of trespassing on
the Himalayan Preserve just to get
acclimated for the climb of their lives.
Or perhaps the blue folders were just some State
Department busy-work that had nothing to do with us.
"What's
the idea of hauling us up here?" asked Gary, his voice controlled but tight. Very tight. "If the Hong
Kong Syndicate wants to throw us in
the slammer, fine, but you and the UN can't just drag us somewhere
against our will. We're still U.S. citizens. . . ."
"U.S. citizens who have broken HK Syndicate Preserve
rules and UN
World Historical Site laws," snapped Secretary Bright Moon.
"We have a valid permit . . . ," began Gary
again. His forehead looked
very red just below the line of his cropped white hair.
"To climb K2, commencing three days from now,"
said the Secretary of State. "Your climbing team won the HK lottery. We know. But that
permit does not allow you to enter or overfly the Himalayan Preserve, or to
trespass on Mount Everest."
Paul
glanced at me. I shook my head. I had no idea what was going on. We could have stolen
Mount Everest and it wouldn't have brought Secretary Betty Willard Bright Moon flying around the world to sit in this
darkened revolving restaurant just to slap our wrists.
Gary
shrugged and sat back. "So what do you want?"
Secretary Bright Moon opened the closest blue dossier and
slid a photo
across the polished teak toward us. We huddled to look at it.
"A bug? "said Gary.
"They prefer Listener" said the
secretary of state. "But mantispid will do."
"What do the bugs have to do with us?" said
Gary.
"This
particular bug wants to climb K2 with you in three days," said Secretary Bright Moon. "And the government of
the United States of America in
cooperation with the Listener Liaison and Cooperation Council of the United
Nations fully intend to have him ... or her . . . do so."
Paul's jaw dropped. Gary clasped his hands behind his
head and laughed. I just
stared. Somehow I found my voice first.
"That's
impossible," I said.
Secretary
Betty Willard Bright Moon turned her flat, dark-eyed gaze on me. "Why?"
Normally
the combination of that woman's personality, her position, and those eyes would
have stopped me cold, but this was too absurd to ignore. I just held out my hands, palms upward. Some things are too obvious
to explain. "The bugs have six legs," I said at last. "They look
like they can hardly walk. We're
climbing the second tallest mountain on earth—And the most savage."
Secretary Bright Moon did not blink. "The bu—The
mantispids seem to get around their freehold in Antarctica quite well,"
she said flatly.
"And sometimes they walk on two legs."
Paul snorted. Gary kept his hands clasped behind his
head, his shoulders back, posture relaxed, but his eyes were flint. "I
presume that if this bug
climbed with us, that you'd hold us responsible for his safety and well-being," he said.
The
secretary's head turned as smoothly as an owl's. "You presume
correctly," she said. "That would be our first concern. The safety of
the Listeners is always our first concern."
Gary lowered his hands and shook his head.
"Impossible. Above eight thousand meters, no one can help anyone."
"That's why they call that altitude the Death
Zone," said Paul. He sounded angry.
Bright Moon ignored Paul and kept her gaze locked with
Gary's. She had spent too
many decades steeped in power, negotiation, and political in-fighting not to know who our leader was.
"We can make the climb safer," she said. "Phones, CMGs on
immediate call, uplinks . . ."
Gary
was shaking his head again. "We do this climb without phones and medevac
capability from the mountain."
"That's absurd . . .," began the secretary of
state.
Gary cut her off. "That's the way it is," he
said. "That's what real mountaineers do in this day and age. And what we
don't do is come to this fucking obscenity of a restaurant." He gestured
toward the darkened Hillary Room to our right, the gesture including all the revolving
Top of the World. One of the marines blinked at Gary's obscenity.
Secretary Bright Moon did not blink. "All right, Mr.
Sheridan. The phones and CMG medevacs are not negotiable. I presume everything else is."
Gary said nothing for a minute. Finally, "I presume
that if we say no, that
you're going to make our lives a living hell."
The secretary of state smiled ever so slightly. "I
think that all of you will find that there will be no more visas for foreign
climbs," she said. "Ever. And all of you may encounter
difficulties with your taxes soon. Especially you, Mr. Sheridan, since your corporate accounts are so ... complicated."
Gary
returned her smile. For an instant it seemed as if he were actually enjoying this. "And if we said
yes," he said slowly, almost drawling, "what's in it for
us?"
Bright Moon nodded, and one of the lackeys to her left
opened another
dossier and slid a slick color photograph across the table toward us. Again all
three of us leaned forward to look. Paul frowned. It took me a minute to figure out what it was—some
sort of reddish shield volcano. Hawaii?
"Mars,"
Gary said softly. "Olympus Mons."
Secretary Bright Moon said, "It is more than twice
as tall as Mount Everest."
Gary laughed easily. "Twice as tall? Shit, woman,
Olympus Mons is more than three times the height of Everest—more than eighty-eight thousand feet high,
three hundred and thirty-five miles in diameter. The caldera is fifty-three miles wide.
Christ, the outward facing cliff ringing the bottom of the thing is taller than
Everest—thirty-two thousand eight hundred feet, vertical with an overhang."
Bright
Moon had finally blinked at the "Shit, woman"—I wondered wildly when the last time had been that someone
had spoken to this secretary of state like that—but now she smiled.
Gary
said, "So what? The Mars program is dead. We chickened out, just like with
the Apollo Program seventy-five years ago. Don't tell me that you're offering to send us there, because we
don't even have the technology to go back."
"The
bugs do," said Secretary Bright Moon. "And if you agree to let the
son of the mantispid speaker climb K2 with you, the Listeners guarantee that they will transport you to Mars within
twelve months—evidently the transit
time will be only two weeks in each direction—and they'll outfit a mountain-climbing expedition up
Olympus Mons for you. Pressure suits,
rebreathers, the whole nine yards."
The
three of us exchanged glances. We did not have to discuss this. We looked back at the photograph. Finally Gary
looked up at Bright Moon. "What
do we have to do other than climb with him?"
"Keep him alive if you can," she said.
Gary shook his head. "You heard Paul. Above eight
thousand meters, we can't guarantee even keeping ourselves alive."
The secretary nodded, but said softly, "Still, if we
added a simple emergency calling device to one of your palmlogs—a distress beacon, as it were—this would allow us to come
quickly to evacuate the mantispid if there
were a problem or illness or injury to him, without interfering with the
... integrity ... of the rest of your climb."
"A red panic button," said Gary, but the three
of us exchanged dances again. This idea was distasteful but reasonable in its way. Besides, once the bug
was taken off the hill, for whatever reason, the three of us could get on with
the climb and maybe still get a crack at Olympus Mons. "What else?" Gary
asked the woman.
Secretary Bright Moon folded her hands and lowered her
gaze a moment. When she looked up again, her gaze appeared to be candid.
"You gentlemen know how
little the mantispids have talked to us ...
how little technology they have shared with us—"
"They gave us CMG," interrupted Gary.
"Yes," said Bright Moon, "CMG in exchange
for their Antarctic freehold. But we've only had hints of the other wonders
they could share with
us—generation starflight technology, a cure for cancer, free energy. The Listeners just . . . well, listen.
This is the first overture they've made."
The three of us waited.
"We
want you to record everything this son of the speaker says during the climb," said Secretary Bright Moon. "Ask
questions. Listen to the answers. Make friends with him if you can.
That's all."
Gary
shook his head. "We don't want to wear a wire." Before Bright Moon could object, he went on, "We have to
wear thermskins—molecular heat
membranes. We're not going to wear wires under or over them."
The secretary looked as if she was ready to order the
marines to shoot Gary and probably throw Paul and me out the window, not that the window could be opened.
The whole damned restaurant was pressurized.
"I'll
do it," I said.
Gary and Paul looked at me in surprise. I admit that I
was also surprised at the offer. I shrugged. "Why not? My folks died of
cancer. I wouldn't
mind finding a cure. You guys can weave a recording wire into my overparka. Or I
can use the recorder in my palmlog. I'll record the bug when I can, but
I'll summarize the other conversations on my palm-log. You know, keep a
record of things."
Secretary Betty Willard Bright Moon looked as if she
were swallowing gall, but she nodded, first to us and then at the marine guards. The
marines
came around the table to escort us back to the UN CMG.
"Wait,"
said Gary before we were led away. "Does this bug have a name?"
"Kanakaredes,"
said the secretary of state, not even looking up at us.
"Sounds
Greek," said Paul.
"I seriously doubt it," said Secretary Bright
Moon.
K2 Base Camp, 16,500
feet
I guess I expected a little flying saucer—a smaller
version of the shuttle craft the bugs had first landed near the UN nine years earlier—but they all arrived in an oversize, bright
red DaimlerChrysler CMG. I saw them first
and shouted. Gary and Paul came out of the supply tent where they had been triple-checking our
provisions.
Secretary Bright Moon wasn't there to see us off, of
course—we hadn't
spoken to her since the night at the Top of the World three days earlier—but
the Listener Liaison guy, William Grimes, and two of his aides got out of the
CMG, as did two bugs, one slightly larger than the other. The smaller mantispid
had some sort of clear, bubbly backpack along his dorsal ridge, nestled in the V
where its main body section joined the prothorax.
The three of us crossed the boulder field until we were
facing the five of them. It was the first time I had ever seen the aliens in
person—I mean,
who ever sees a bug in person?—and I admit that I was nervous. Behind us, above us, spindrift and cloud
whirled from the ridges and summit of K2. If
the mantispids smelled weird, I couldn't pick it up since the breeze was
blowing from behind the three of us.
"Mr. Sheridan, Mr. Hiraga, Mr. Pettigrew," said
the bureaucrat Grimes, "may I introduce Listener Speaker Aduradake and his ... son . . .
Kanakaredes."
The taller of the two bugs unfolded that weird arm or
foreleg, swiveled the short
forearm thing up like a praying mantis unlimbering, and offered Gary its
three-fingered hand. Gary shook it. Paul shook it. I shook it. It felt
boneless.
The shorter bug watched, its two primary eyes black and
unreadable, its smaller
side-eyes lidded and sleepy-looking. It—Kanakaredes—did not offer to shake
hands.
"My
people thank you for agreeing to allow Kanakaredes to accompany you on this
expedition," said Speaker Aduradake. I don't know if they used implanted
voice synthesizers to speak to us—I think not—but the English came out as a carefully modulated series of clicks and
sighs. Quite understandable, but
strange, very strange.
"No problem," said Gary.
It
looked as if the UN bureaucrats wanted to say more—make some speeches, perhaps—but Speaker Aduradake swiveled on
his four rear legs and picked his way
across the boulders to the CMC's ramp. The humans scurried to catch up. Half a
minute later and the vehicle was nothing more than a red speck in the blue
southern sky.
The four of us stood there silent for a second, listening
to the wind howl around the remaining seracs of the Godwin-Austen Glacier and
through niches in the wind-carved boulders. Finally Gary said, "You bring all the shit we e-mailed you
about?"
"Yes," said Kanakaredes. His forearms swiveled
in their high sockets, the long mantis femur moved up and back, and the third
segment swiveled downward so
that the soft, three-fingered hands could pat the clear pack on his back.
"Brought all the shit, just as you e-mailed." His clicks and sighs sounded just like the other
bug's.
"Compatible North Face smart tent?" said Gary.
The bug nodded—or at least I took that movement of the
broad, beaked
head as a nod. Gary must also have. "Rations for two weeks?" he asked.
"Yes," said Kanakaredes.
"We have the climbing gear for you," said Gary.
"Grimes said that you've
practiced with it all—crampons, ropes, knots, weblines, ice axe, jumars—that you've been on a mountain
before."
"Mount
Erebus," said Kanakaredes. "I have practiced there for some months."
Gary sighed. "K2 is a little different from Mount
Erebus."
We were all silent again for a bit. The wind howled and
blew my long hair forward
around my face. Finally Paul pointed up the glacier where it curved near Base Camp and rose toward the east side of K2 and beneath the back side of Broad Peak. I could just
see the icefall where the glacier met the Abruzzi Ridge on K2. That ridge, path
of the first attempt on the mountain and line of the first successful
summit assault, was our fallback route if our
attempt on the North-East Ridge and East Face fell behind schedule.
"You see, we could fly over the glacier and start
the climb from the base of the Abruzzi at eighteen thousand feet," said
Paul, "miss all the crevasse
danger that way, but it's part of the climb to start from here."
Kanakaredes said nothing. His two primary eyes had clear
membranes,
but the eyes never blinked. They stared blackly at Paul. The other two eyes were looking God knows
where.
I felt that I should say something. Anything. I cleared
my throat.
"Fuck
it," said Gary. "We're burning daylight. Let's load 'em up and move 'em out."
Camp One, North-East
Ridge, about 18,300 feet
They call K2 "the savage mountain" and a
hundred other names—all respectful. It's a killer mountain; more men and women
have died on it m terms of
percentage of those attempting to climb it than on any other peak in the Himalayas or
the Karakoram. It is not malevolent. It is simply
the Zen-essence of mountain—hard, tall, pyramidal when seen from the
south in the perfect child's-drawing iconic model of the Matterhorn, jagged, steep, knife-ridged, racked by frequent
avalanches and unearthly storms, its essentially airless summit almost
continuously blasted by the jet
stream. No contortion of sentiment or personification can suggest that this mountain gives the slightest shit about
human hopes or human life. In a way
that is impossible to articulate and politically incorrect even to suggest, K2 is profoundly masculine. It is
eternally indifferent and absolutely unforgiving. Climbers have loved it
and triumphed on it and died on it for more
than a century.
Now
it was our turn to see which way this particular prayer wheel turned.
Have you ever watched a mantispid bug walk? I mean, we've
all seen them
on HDTV or VirP—there's an entire satellite channel dedicated to them, for Christ's sake—but usually
that's just quick cuts, long-lens images, or static shots of the bug speaker
and some political bigshots standing around
somewhere. Have you ever watched them -walk for any length of
time?
In crossing the upper reaches of the Godwin-Austen Glacier
under the
11,000-foot vertical wall that is the east face of K2, you have two choices. You can stay near the edges of
the glacier, where there are almost no
crevasses, and risk serious avalanche danger, or you can stick to the
center of the glacier and never know when the snow and ice underfoot is
suddenly going to collapse into a hidden crevasse. Any climber worth his or her
salt will choose the crevasse-route if there's even a hint of avalanche risk.
Skill and experience can help you avoid crevasses; there's not a goddamn thing in the world you can do except pray when an avalanche comes your way.
To climb the glacier, we had to rope up. Gary, Paul, and
I had discussed
this—whether or not to rope with the bug—but when we reached the part of
the glacier where crevasses would be most probable, inevitable actually, we
really didn't have a choice. It would have been murder to let Kanakaredes proceed
unroped.
One
of the first things all of us thought when the bugs landed almost ten years ago was "Are they wearing clothes?
" We know now that they weren't—that their weird combination of
chitinous exoskeleton on their main body
section and layers of different membranes on the softer parts serve well in lieu of clothing—but that doesn't
mean that they go around with their
sexual parts showing. Theoretically, mantispids are sexual
creatures—male or female—but I've never heard of a human being who's seen a bug's genitals, and I can
testify that Gary, Paul, and I didn't want to be the first.
Still, the aliens rig themselves with toolbelts or
harnesses or whatever when necessary—just as Kanakaredes had shown up with that weird bubble-pack on his
back with all his climbing gear in it—and as soon as we started the ascent,
he removed a harness from that pack and rigged it around that chunky, almost armored
upper section of himself where his arm and midleg sockets were. He also used a
regulation-size metal ice
axe, gripping the curved metal top in those three boneless fingers. It seemed strange to see something as prosaic as a
red nylon climbing harness and carabiners and an ice axe on a bug, but
that's what he had.
When it came time to rope up, we clipped the spidersilk
line onto our 'biners, passing the line back in our usual climbing order,
except that
this time—instead of Paul's ass slowly slogging up the glacier in front of me—I got to
watch Kanakaredes plod along ten paces ahead of me for hour after hour.
"Plod along" really doesn't do bug locomotion
justice. We've all seen a bug balance and walk on its midlegs, standing more
upright on those balancing
legs, its back straightening, its head coming up until it's tall enough to
stare a short human male in the eye, forelegs suddenly looking more like real
arms than praying mantis appendages—but I suspect now that they do that just for that reason—to appear more human in their rare public appearances. So far, Kanakaredes
had stood on just two legs only during the formal meeting back at Base
Camp. As soon as we started hiking up the glacier, his head came down and
forward, that V between his main body
section and prothorax widened, those mantis-arms stretched far forward like a
human extending two poles ahead of him, and he fell into a seemingly
effortless four-legged motion.
But, Jesus Christ, what a weird motion. All of a bug's
legs have three joints, of course, but I realized after only a few minutes of following
this particular
bug up the Godwin-Austen Glacier that those joints never seem to bend the
same way at the same time. One of those praying mantis forelegs would be double bent forward
and down so that Kanakaredes could plant
his ice axe in the slope, while the other bent forward and then back so that he could scratch that weird beak
of a snout. At the same time, the midlegs would be bending rather like a
horse's, only instead of a hoof, the lower, shortest section ended in those
chitinous but somehow dainty, divided . . .
hell, I don't know, hoof-feet. And the hind legs, the ones socketed at the base
of the soft prothorax . . . those are the ones that made me dizzy as I watched the bug climbing through soft snow
in front of me. Sometimes the alien's knees—those first joints about two-thirds of the way down the legs—would be
higher than his back. At other times one knee would be bending forward,
the other one back, while the lower joints were doing even stranger things.
After a while, I gave up trying to figure out the engineering of the creature, and just began admiring the easy way it moved up the steep snow and ice. The three of us
had worried about the small surface area of a bug's feet on snow—the V-shaped hoof-things aren't even as large as an unshod human foot—and wondered if we'd be tugging the
mantispid out of
every drift on our way up the mountain, but Kanakaredes managed quite well,
thank you. I guess it was due to the fact that I guessed at that time that he probably
weighed only about 150 pounds, and that weight was spread out over four—and sometimes
six, when he tucked the ice
axe in his harness and scrambled—walking surfaces. To tell the truth, the bug had to help me slog clear of deep snow two or three times on the upper reaches of the glacier.
During
the afternoon, with the sun blazing on the reflective bowl of ice that was the glacier, it got damned hot. The
three of us humans damped our
thermskin controls way down and shed our parka outer layers to cool off.
The bug seemed comfortable enough, although he rested without complaint while we rested, drank water from his water bottle when
we paused to drink, and chewed on something that looked like a shingle made of compressed dog poop while we
munched our nutrient bars (which, I
realize now, also looked a lot like a shingle made of compressed dog poop). If Kanakaredes suffered from
overheating or chill that first long day on the glacier, he didn't show
it.
Long
before sunset, the mountain shadow had moved across us and three of the four of us were raising our thermskin
thresholds and tugging on the parka shells again. It had begun snowing.
Suddenly a huge avalanche calved off the east face of K2 and swept down the
slope behind us, boiling and rolling over a
part of the glacier we had been climbing just an hour earlier.
We all froze in our tracks until the rumbling stopped.
Our tracks in the shadowed snow—rising in a more-or-less straight line for a
thousand-foot elevation gain
over the last mile or so—looked like they had been rubbed out by a giant eraser
for a swath of several hundred yards.
"Holy
shit," I said.
Gary
nodded, breathing a little hard since he had been breaking trail for most of the afternoon, turned, took a step,
and disappeared.
For the last hours, whoever had been in the lead had
probed ahead with his ice axe to make sure that the footing ahead was real and not
just a skim of snow over a
deep crevasse. Gary had taken two steps without doing this. And the crevasse
got him.
One instant he was there, red parka glowing against the
shadowed ice and the white snow on the ridge now so close ahead of
us, and the next instant
he was gone.
And then Paul disappeared as well.
No one screamed or reacted poorly. Kanakaredes instantly
braced himself in full-belay
posture, slammed his ice axe deep into the ice beneath him, and wrapped the
line around it twice before the thirty feet or so of slack between him and Paul had played out. I did the same, digging
crampons in as hard as I could, fully expecting the crevasse to pull the
bug in and then me.
It didn't.
The line snapped taut but did not snap—genetically
tailored spider-silk climbing rope almost never breaks—Kanakaredes's ice axe stayed firm, as did the bug holding it in the
glacier ice, and the two of us held them. We
waited a full minute in our rigid postures, making sure that we weren't also standing on a thin crust over a
crevasse, but when it was obvious where the crevasse rim was, I gasped,
"Keep them tight," un-clipped, and crawled forward to peer down the
black gap.
I
have no idea how deep the crevasse was—a hundred feet? A thousand? But both Paul and Gary were dangling
there—Paul a mere fifteen feet or so down, still in the light, looking fairly comfortable
as he braced his back against the blue-green ice wall and rigged his climbing
jumars. That clamp and cam device,
infinitely lighter and stronger but otherwise no different than the jumars our
grandfathers might have used, would
get him back up on his own as long as the rope held and as soon as he
could get the footloops attached.
Gary did not look so comfortable. Almost forty feet down,
hanging headfirst
under an icy overhang so that only his crampons and butt caught the light, he looked as if he might
be in trouble. If he had hit his head on the ice on the way down . . .
Then
I heard him cursing—the incredible epithets and shouts almost muffled in the
crevasse, but still echoing deep as he cursed straight into the underbelly of
the glacier—and I knew that he was all right.
It took only a minute or so for Paul to jumar up and over
the lip, but
getting Gary rightside up and then lifted up over the overhang so he could attach his own jumars took a bit
longer and involved some manhauling.
That's when I discovered how goddamned strong this bug
was. I think
that Kanakaredes could have hauled all three of us out of that crevasse if we'd been unconscious, almost
six hundred pounds of dead weight. And I
think he could have done it using only one of those skinny, almost muscleless-looking praying mantis
forearms of his.
When Gary was out and untangled from his lines, harness,
and jumars,
we moved carefully around the crevasse, me in the lead and probing with my axe like
a blind man in a vale of razor blades, and when we'd reached a good site for Camp One just at
the base of the ridge, offering only a short climb in the morning to the crest
of the northeast ridge that would eventually take us up onto the shoulder of K2
itself, we found a spot in the last patch of
sun, unhooked the rope from our carabiners, dumped our
seventy-five-pound packs, and just gasped for a while before setting up camp.
"Fucking
good beginning to the goddamned motherfucking expedition," said Gary between slugs on his water bottle. "Absolutely
bastardly motherfucking brilliant—I
walk into a goddamned sonofabitching whore-mongering crevasse like some
pissant whoreson fucking day tripper."
I
looked over at Kanakaredes. Who could read a bug's expression? That endless mouth with all its jack-o'-lantern
bumps and ridges, wrapped two-thirds around its head from its beaky
proboscis almost to the beginning of its
bumpy skullcrest, always seemed to be smiling. Was it smiling more now? Hard to tell, and I was in no
mood to ask.
One
thing was clear. The mantispid had a small, clear device out—something very similar to our credit card
palmlogs—and was entering data with a flurry of its three fingers. A
lexicon, I thought. Either translating or
recording Gary's outburst which was, I admit, a magnificent flow of invective. He was still weaving a
brilliant tapestry of obscenity that showed no sign of abating and which would
probably hang over the Godwin-Austen Glacier like a blue cloud for years
to come. Good luck using this vocabulary during one
of your UN cocktail parties, I thought to Kanakaredes as he finished his data entry and repacked
his palmlog.
When Gary finally trailed off, I exchanged grins with
Paul—who had said nothing
since dropping into the crevasse—and we got busy breaking out the smart tents, the sleeping bags, and the stoves before
darkness dropped Camp One into deep
lunar cold.
Camp
Two, between a cornice and an avalanche slope, about 20,000 feet
I'm keeping these recordings for the State Department
intelligence people and all the rest who want to learn everything about the bugs—about the mantispids'
technology, about their reasons for coming to Earth, about their culture and
religions—all the things they've somehow neglected to tell us in the past nine and a half years.
Well, here's the sum total of my recording of human-mantispid conversation from last night at Camp One—
GARY: Uh . . . Kan . . . Kanakaredes? We were thinking
of merging
our three tents and cooking up some soup and hitting the sack early. You have any
problem keeping your tent separate tonight? There's room on this snow slab for both tent
parts.
Kanakaredes: I have no problem with that.
So much for interrogating our bug.
***
We
should be higher tonight. We had a long, strong day of climbing today, but
we're still on the low part of the northeast ridge and we have to do better if
we're going to get up this hill and down safely in the two weeks allotted to us.
All this "Camp One" and "Camp Two"
stuff I'm putting in this palmlog diary are old terms from the last century when
attempts at eight-thousand-meter peaks literally demanded armies of men and women—more than two
hundred people hauling supplies for the first American Everest expedition in 1963.
Some of the peaks were pyramid-shaped but all the logistics were. By that
I mean that scores of porters
hauled in uncounted tons of supplies—Sherpa porters and high-climbers in the Himalayas, primarily Balti porters here in the
Karakoram—and teams of men and women man-hauled these tons up the
mountains, working in relays to establish camps to last the duration of the climb, breaking and marking trail,
establishing fixed ropes up literally
miles of slope, and moving teams of climbers up higher and higher until, after weeks, sometimes months of
effort, a very few of the best and
luckiest climbers—say six or four or two or even one from the scores who started—were in a position to make
an attempt on the summit from a high camp—usually Camp Six, but sometimes Camp
Seven or higher—starting somewhere in the Death Zone above eight thousand
meters. "Assault" on a mountain was a good word then, since it took an army to mount the assault.
Gary,
Paul, the bug, and I are climbing alpine style. This means that we carry everything we need—starting heavy and
getting lighter and lighter as we climb—essentially making a direct bid on the
summit, hoping to climb it in a week
or less. No series of permanent camps, just temporary slabs cut out of the snow
and ice for our smart tents—at least up
until whatever camp we designate as our summit-attempt jumping-off point. Then we'll leave the tents and most of
the gear there and go for it, hoping
and praying to whatever gods we have—and who knows what
gods Kanakaredes prays to, if any—praying that the weather won't turn bad while we're up there in the
Death Zone, that we won't get lost coming down to our high camp in the dark, that nothing
serious happens to any
us of during that final attempt since we really can't help each other at that
altitude—essentially just praying our asses off that we don't fuck up.
But that is if we can keep moving steadily up this
hill. Today wasn't so steady.
We
started early, breaking down Camp One in a few minutes, loading efficiently, and climbing well—me in the lead,
then Paul, then the bug, then Gary.
There's a bitch of a steep, razor-edge traverse starting at about the 23,300-foot level—the hardest pitch on
the northeast ridge part of our route—and we wanted to settle into a
secure camp at the beginning of that scary
traverse by nightfall tonight. No such luck.
I'm
sure I have some of Kanakaredes's comments recorded from today, but they're mostly monosyllables and they
don't reveal any great bug secrets.
They're more along the lines of—"Kana . . . Kanaka . . . hey K, did you pack the extra stove?"
"Yes." "Want to take a lunch break?" "That
would be fine."—and Gary's "Shit, it's starting to snow." Come to think of it, I don't believe the
mantispid initiated any conversation. All the clicks and sighs on the
palmlog chip are K replying to our questions.
All the cursing was ours.
It started to snow heavily about noon.
Until then things had been going well. I was still in the
lead—burning
calories at a ferocious rate as I broke trail and kicked steps in the steep
slope for the others to follow. We were climbing independently, not roped. If one of us slipped or
caught his crampons on a rock rather than
ice, it was up to that person to stop his slide by self-arrest with his ice axe. Otherwise one had just bought a
really great amusement-park ride of
a screaming slide on ice for a thousand feet or so and then a launch out over the edge to open space, dropping
three or four thousand feet to the
glacier below.
The best idea is not to think about that, just keep
points attached to the snow slope at all times and make damned sure that no
matter how tired you were,
that you paid attention to where you kicked your crampons into the ice. I have no idea if Kanakaredes had a fear of
heights—I made a fatigued mental note to ask him—but his climbing style showed
caution and care. His "crampons" were customized—a series of sharp, plastic-looking spikes lashed to those weird
arrow-shaped feet of his—but he took
care in their placement and used his ice axe well. He was climbing two-legged
this day, his rear legs folded into his elevated prothorax so that you wouldn't know they were there unless you
knew where to look.
By 10:30 or 11:00 A.M., we'd gained enough altitude that
we could clearly
see Staircase Peak—its eastern ridge looks like a stairway for some Hindu giant—on
the northeast side of K2. The mountain is also called Skyang Kangri and it was
beautiful, dazzling in the sunlight against the still-blue eastern sky. Far below, we could see the
Godwin-Austen Glacier crawling along the
base of Skyang Kangri to the 19,000-foot
pass of Windy Gap. We could easily see over Windy Pass now, scores of
miles to the browning hills of what used to be China and now was the mythical country of Sinkiang, fought over
even as we climbed by troops from the HK and various Chinese warlords.
More pertinent to our cause right now was the view up
and westward toward the beautiful but almost laughable bulk of K2, with its wild
knife-edge
ridge that we hoped to reach by nightfall. At this rate, I thought just before looking up at it again, it
shouldn't be any problem. . . .
That was precisely the moment when Gary called up,
"Shit! It's starting to
snow!"
The clouds had rolled in from the south and west when we
weren't watching,
and within ten minutes we were enveloped by them. The wind came up. Snow blew everywhere. We had
to cluster up on the increasingly steep
slope just to keep track of one another. Naturally, at precisely this point in the day's climb, our
steep but relatively easy snow slope
turned into a forbidding wall of ice with a band of brittle rock visible above for the few minutes before the clouds
shut off all our view for the rest of the day.
"Fuck
me," said Paul as we gathered at the foot of the ice slope.
Kanakaredes's
bulky, beaked head turned slowly in Paul's direction, his black eyes attentive, as if he was curious as to whether such a
biological improbability was possible. K asked no questions and Paul
volunteered no answers.
Paul, the best ice climber among us, took the lead for
the next half hour or so,
planting his axe into the near-vertical ice wall, then kicking hard with the two spike points on the front of his
boot, then pulling himself up with the strength of his right arm,
kicking one foot in again, pulling the axe out, slamming it in again.
This
is basic ice-climbing technique, not difficult, but exhausting at almost twenty thousand feet—twice the altitude
where CMGs and commercial airlines are required to go to pressurized O2—and it took time, especially
since we'd roped up now and were belaying Paul as he kick-climbed.
Paul was about seventy feet above us now and was moving
cautiously out onto the rock
band. Suddenly a slew of small rocks came loose and hurtled down toward us.
There was no place for us to go. Each of us had hacked
out a tiny platform in the ice on which we could stand, so all we could do was
press ourselves
against the ice wall, cover up, and wait. The rocks missed me. Gary had a fist-size
rock bounce off his pack and go hurtling out into space. Kanakaredes
was hit twice by serious-size rocks—once in his upper left leg, arm, whatever it is, and
again on his bumpy dorsal ridge. I heard both rocks strike; they made a sound
like stone hitting slate.
"Fuck
me," K said clearly as more rocks bounced around him.
When
the fusillade was over, after Paul had finished shouting down apologies and Gary had finished hurling up
insults, I kick-stepped the ten or so paces to where K still huddled against
the ice wall, his right mantis forearm raised, the ice axe and his toe
points still dug in tight.
"You hurt?" I said. I was worried that we'd
have to use the red button to evacuate the bug and that our climb would be ruined.
Kanakaredes
slowly shook his head—not so much to say no, but to check things out. It was almost painful to watch—his bulky head and smiling beak rotating almost 270 degrees in each
direction. His free forearm unlimbered, bent impossibly, and those long,
unjointed fingers carefully patted and probed his dorsal ridge. Click. Sigh. Click—"I'm all
right."
"Paul will be more careful on the rest of the rock
band."
"That would be good."
Paul was more careful, but the rock was rotten,
and there were a few more
landslides, but no more direct hits. Ten minutes and sixty or seventy feet
later, he had reached the crest of the ridge, found a good belay stance, and called us up. Gary, who was still
pissed—he liked few things less than
being pelted by rocks set loose by someone else—started up next. I had
Kanakaredes follow thirty feet behind Gary. The bug's ice technique was
by the book—not flashy but serviceable. I came up last, trying to stay close enough that I could see and dodge any loosened boulders
when we all reached the rock band.
By the time we were all on the northeast ridge and
climbing it, the visibility was close to zero, the temperature had dropped about fifty
degrees,
the snow was thick and mushy and treacherous, and we could hear but not see
avalanches roaring down both the east face of K2 and this very slope
somewhere both ahead of us and behind us in the fog. We stayed roped up.
"Welcome to K2," Gary shouted back from where
he had taken the lead. His parka and hood and goggles and bare chin were a scary, icicled
mass
mostly obscured by horizontally blowing snow.
"Thank you," click-hissed K in what I heard as
a more formal tone. "It is a great pleasure to be here."
Camp
Three—under a serac on the crest of the ridge at the
beginning
of the knife-edge traverse, 23,200 feet
Stuck here three full days and nights, fourth night
approaching. Hunkered here useless in our tents, eating nutrient bars and cooking soup that can't be
replaced, using up the heating charge in the stove to melt snow into water, each of us getting
weaker and crankier due to the altitude and lack of exercise. The wind has been
howling and the storm raging for three full
days—four days if you count our climb from Camp Two. Yesterday Gary and
Paul—with Paul in the lead on the incredibly steep ridge—tried to force
the way across the steep climbing traverse in the storm, planning to lay down
fixed rope even if we had to make the summit
bid with only whatever string remained in our pockets. They failed on the traverse attempt, turning back after
three hours in the howling weather
and returning ice-crusted and near-frostbitten. It took more than four
hours for Paul to quit shaking, even with the thermskins and regulated smart clothing raising his body
temperature. If we don't get across
this traverse soon—storm or no storm—we won't have to worry about what gear and supplies will be left
for the summit bid. There won't be
any summit bid.
I'm not even sure now how we managed the climb two days
ago from Camp
Two to this narrow patch of chopped out ridge crest. Our bug was obviously at the
edge of his skill envelope, even with his extra legs and greater strength,
and we decided to rope together for the last few hours of climbing, just in case K
peeled loose. It wouldn't do much good to push the red panic button on the palmlog
just to tell the arriving UN CMG guys that Kanakaredes had taken a header five thousand
feet straight
down to the Godwin-Austen Glacier.
"Mr. Alien Speaker, sir, we sort of lost your kid.
But maybe you can scrape him up off the glacier ice and clone him or something." No,
we didn't want that.
As it was, we ended up working after dark, headlamps
glowing, ropes 'binered to our harnesses and attached to the slope via ice screws just
to keep us from being blown into black space, using our ice axes to hack a platform big enough
for the tent—there was only room for a merged cluster of the smart tents, wedged ten
feet from a vertical drop, forty feet from an avalanche path and tucked
directly beneath an overhanging serac the size of a three-story building—a
serac that could give way any time and take us and the tent with it. Not the best spot
to spend ten minutes in, much
less three days and nights during a high-altitude hurricane. But we had no choice; everything else here was knife-ridge or avalanche slope.
As much as I would have preferred it otherwise, we
finally had time for some conversation. Our tents were joined in the form of a squished cross, with a tiny
central area, not much more than two feet or so across, for cooking and
conversation and just enough room for each of us to pull back into our small nacelles when we
curled up to sleep. The platform we'd hacked
out of the slope under the overhanging serac wasn't big enough or flat enough to serve all of us, and
I ended up in one of the downhill
segments, my head higher than my feet. The angle was flat enough to allow me to
doze off but still steep enough to send me frequently lurching up from sleep,
fingers clawing for my ice axe to stop my slide. But my ice axe was
outside with the others, sunk in the deepening
snow and rock-hard ice, with about a hundred feet of spidersilk climbing
rope lashed around it and over the tent and back again. I think we also used twelve ice screws to secure us to
the tiny ice shelf.
Not
that any of this will do us a damned bit of good if the serac decides to go or the slope shifts or the winds just
make up their minds to blow the whole mass of rope, ice axes, screws, tent,
humans, and bug right off the mountain.
We've
slept a lot, of course. Paul had brought a softbook loaded with a dozen or so novels and a bunch of magazines, so
we handed that around
occasionally—even K took his turn reading—and for the first day we didn't talk much because of the effort it
took to speak up over the wind howl
and the noise of snow and hail pelting the tent. But eventually we grew bored even of sleeping and tried
some conversation. That first day it
was mostly climbing and technical talk—reviewing the route, listing points for and against the direct
attempt once we got past this traverse and up over the snow dome at the
base of the summit pyramid—Gary arguing for
the Direct Finish no matter what, Paul urging
caution and a possible traverse to the more frequently climbed Abruzzi Ridge,
Kanakaredes and me listening. But by the second and third days, we were
asking the bug personal questions.
"So
you guys came from Aldebaran," said Paul on the second afternoon of the storm. "How long did it take
you?"
"Five hundred years," said our bug. To fit in
his section of the tent, he'd had to fold every appendage he had at least
twice. I couldn't help but think it was uncomfortable for him.
Gary
whistled. He'd never paid much attention to all the media coverage of the mantispids.
"Are you that old, K? Five hundred years?"
Kanakaredes let out a soft whistle that I was beginning
to suspect was some equivalent to a laugh. "I am only twenty-three of your years
old, Gary,"
he said. "I was born on the ship, as were my parents and their parents and so on far back. Our life span
is roughly equivalent to yours. It was a ...
generation-ship, I believe is your term for it." He paused as the howling wind rose to ridiculous volume and
velocity. When it died a bit he went
on, "I knew no other home than the ship until we reached Earth."
Paul and I exchanged glances. It was time for me to
interrogate our captive bug for country, family, and Secretary Bright Moon. "So why did you .. . the
Listeners . . . travel all the way to Earth?" I asked. The bugs had answered this publicly on more
than one occasion, but the answer was always
the same and never made much sense.
"Because
you were there," said the bug. It was the same old answer. It was flattering, I guess, since we humans have
always considered ourselves the center of the universe, but it still
made little sense.
"But
why spend centuries traveling to meet us?" asked Paul.
"To
help you learn to listen," said K.
"Listen
to what?" I said. "You? The mantispids? We're interested in listening. Interested in learning. We'll listen to
you."
Kanakaredes slowly shook his heavy head. I realized,
viewing the mantispid from
this close, that his head was more saurian—dinosaur/ birdlike—than buggy. "Not listen to us," click, hiss. "To
the song of your own world."
"To the song of our world?" asked Gary almost
brusquely. "You mean, just appreciate life more? Slow down and smell the
roses? Stuff like that?" Gary's second wife had been into transcendental
meditation. I think it was
the reason he divorced her.
"No," said K. "I mean listen to the sound
of your world. You have fed your seas. You have consecrated your world. But you
do not listen."
It was my turn to muddle things even further. "Fed
our seas and consecrated our world," I said. The entire tent thrummed as a gust hit
it and
then subsided. "How did we do that?"
"By dying, Jake," said the bug. It was the first
time he'd used my name.
"By becoming part of the seas, of the world."
"Does dying have something to do with hearing the
song?" asked Paul.
Kanakaredes's eyes were perfectly round and absolutely
black, but they did not seem threatening as he looked at us in the glow of one of the flashlights. "You cannot hear
the song when you are dead," he whistle-clicked. "But you cannot have
the song unless your species has recycled
its atoms and molecules through your world for millions of years." "Can you hear the song
here?" I asked. "On Earth, I mean." "No," said
the bug.
I decided to try a more promising tack. "You gave us
CMG technology," I said,
"and that's certainly brought wonderful changes." Bullshit, I
thought. I'd liked things better before cars could fly. At least the traffic
jams along the Front Range where I lived in Colorado had been two dimensional then. "But we're sort of ... well
. . . curious about when the
Listeners are going to share other secrets with us."
"We
have no secrets," said Kanakaredes. "Secrets was not even a concept to us before we arrived here on
Earth."
"Not
secrets then," I said hurriedly, "but more new technologies, inventions, discoveries ..."
"What
kind of discoveries?" said K.
I
took a breath. "A cure to cancer would be good," I said.
Kanakaredes made a clicking sound. "Yes, that would
be good," he breathed at last. "But this is a disease of your
species. Why have you not cured it?"
"We've tried," said Gary. "It's a tough
nut to crack."
"Yes," said Kanakaredes, "it is a tough
nut to crack."
I decided not to be subtle. "Our species need to
learn from one another," I said, my voice perhaps a shade louder than necessary to be
heard over the storm. "But your people are so reticent. When are we really going to start
talking to each other?"
"When
your species learns to listen," said K.
"Is
that why you came on this climb with us?" asked Paul.
"I hope that is not the only result," said the
bug, "but it is, along with the need to understand, the reason I
came."
I looked at Gary. Lying on his stomach, his head only
inches from the low tent
roof, he shrugged slightly.
"You have mountains on your home world? "
asked Paul.
"I was taught that we did not."
"So your homeworld was sort of like the south pole
where you guys have your
freehold?"
"Not that cold," said Kanakaredes, "and never
that dark in the winter. But
the atmospheric pressure is similar."
"So you're acclimated to about—what?—seven or eight
thousand feet altitude?"
"Yes," said the mantispid.
"And
the cold doesn't bother you?" asked Gary.
"It is uncomfortable at times," said the bug.
"But our species has evolved a subcutaneous layer which serves much as your
thermskins in regulating temperature."
It was my turn to ask a question. "If your world
didn't have mountains,"
I said, "why do you want to climb K2 with us?"
"Why do you wish to climb it?" asked
Kanakaredes, his head swiveling smoothly to look at each of us.
There was silence for a minute. Well, not really silence
since the wind
and pelting snow made it sound as if we were camped behind a jet exhaust, but at
least none of us humans spoke.
Kanakaredes
folded and unfolded his six legs. It was disturbing to watch. "I believe that I will try to sleep now," he said, and
closed the flap that separated his niche from ours.
The three of us put our heads together and whispered. "He
sounds like
a goddamned missionary," hissed Gary. "All this 'listen to the song' doubletalk."
"Just
our luck," said Paul. "Our first contact with an extraterrestrial civilization, and they're freaking Jehovah's
Witnesses."
"He
hasn't handed us any tracts yet," I said.
"Just wait," whispered Gary. "The four of
us are going to stagger onto
the summit of this hill someday if this fucking storm ever lets up, exhausted, gasping for air that isn't there,
frostbitten to shit and back, and
this bug's going to haul out copies of the Mantispid Watchtower."
"Shhh,"
said Paul. "K'll hear us."
Just then the wind hit the tent so hard that we all tried
digging our fingernails through the hyper-polymer floor to keep the tent from
sliding off its precarious perch and down the mountain. If worst came to worst,
we'd shout "Open!" at the top of our lungs, the smart tent fabric would fold away, and
we'd roll out onto the slope in our thermskins and grab for our ice axes to
self-arrest the slide. That was the theory. In fact, if the platform
shifted or the spidersilk snapped, we'd almost certainly be airborne before we knew what hit us.
When
we could hear again over the wind roar, Gary shouted, "If we unpeel from this platform, I'm going to cuss a
fucking blue streak all the way down to impact on the glacier."
"Maybe that's the song that K's been talking
about," said Paul, and sealed his flap.
Last note to the day: Mantispids snore.
On the afternoon of day three, Kanakaredes suddenly said,
"My creche
brother is also listening to a storm near your south pole at this very moment. But his
surroundings are . . . more comfortable and secure than our tent."
I
looked at the other two, and we all showed raised eyebrows.
"I didn't know you brought a phone with you on this
climb, K," I said.
"I did not."
"Radio? "said Paul.
"No."
"Subcutaneous intergalactic Star Trek communicator?"
said Gary. His sarcasm, much
as his habit of chewing the nutrient bars too slowly, was beginning to get on my nerves after three days in this tent. I thought
that perhaps the next time he was sarcastic or chewed slowly, I might just kill
him.
K
whistled ever so slightly. "No," he said. "I understood your
climbers' tradition of bringing no
communication devices on this expedition."
"Then how do you know that your . . . what was it,
creche brother?
... is in a storm down
there?" asked Paul.
"Because he is my creche brother," said K.
"We were born in the same
hour. We are, essentially, the same genetic material."
"Twins," I said.
"So you have telepathy?" said Paul.
Kanakaredes
shook his head, his proboscis almost brushing the napping tent fabric. "Our scientists think that there is no such thing
as telepathy. For any species."
"Then how—?" I began.
"My creche brother and I often resonate on the same
frequencies to the song of the world and universe," said K in one of the
longest sentences we'd heard from him. "Much as your identical twins do. We often share the same dreams." Bugs dream. I made a mental note
to record this factoid later.
"And does your creche brother know what you're
feeling right now?" said Paul.
"I believe so."
"And
what's that?" asked Gary, chewing far too slowly on an n-bar.
"Right now," said Kanakaredes, "it is
fear."
The
fourth day dawned perfectly clear, perfectly calm.
We were packed and climbing across the traverse before
the first rays of sunlight
struck the ridgeline. It was cold as a witch's tit.
I mentioned that this part of the route was perhaps the
most technically challenging
of the climb—at least until we reached the actual summit pyramid—but it was also the most beautiful and exhilarating. You would have to see photos to appreciate the
almost absurd steepness of this
section of the ridge and even then it wouldn't allow you to feel the
exposure. The northeast ridge just kept climbing in a series of swooping,
knife-edged snow cornices, each side dropping away almost vertically.
As soon as we had moved onto the ridge, we looked back at
the gigantic serac hanging above the trampled area of our Camp III perched on the edge of the
ridge—the snow serac larger and more deformed and obviously unstable than ever after the
heavy snows and howling winds of the last four days of storm—and we didn't have
to say a word to one another to acknowledge
how lucky we had been. Even Kanakaredes seemed grateful to get out of
there.
Two hundred feet into the traverse and we went up and over
the blade
of the knife. The snowy ridgeline was so narrow here that we could—and did—straddle it for a minute as
if swinging our legs over a very, very steep
roofline.
Some
roof. One side dropped down thousands of feet into what used to be China. Our left legs—three of
Kanakaredes's—hung over what used to
be Pakistan. Right around this point, climbers in the twentieth century used to joke about needing passports but
seeing no border guards. In this
CMG-era, a Sianking HK gunship or Indian hop-fighter could float up here anytime, hover fifty yards
out, and blow us right off the ridge.
None of us was worried about this. Kanakaredes's presence was insurance against that.
This was the hardest climbing yet, and our bug friend was
working hard
to keep up. Gary and Paul and I had discussed this the night before, whispering
again while K was asleep, and we decided that this section was too steep
for all of us to be roped together. We'd travel in two pairs. Paul was the
obvious man to rope with K, although if either of them came off on this
traverse, odds were overwhelming that the other would go all the way to the bottom with
him. The same was true of Gary and me, climbing ahead of them. Still, it gave a
very slight measure of insurance.
The
sunlight moved down the slope, warming us, as we moved from one side of the
knife-edge to the other, following the best line, trying to stay off the sections so steep that snow would
not stick—avoiding it not just because of the pitch there, but because
the rock was almost always loose and
rotten—and hoping to get as far as we could before the warming sun
loosened the snow enough to make our crampons less effective.
I loved the litany of the tools we were using: deadmen,
pitons, pickets, ice screws, carabiners, jumar ascenders. I loved the precision
of our movements, even with
the labored breathing and dull minds that were a component of any exertion at almost eight thousand meters. Gary would kick-step his way out onto the wall of ice
and snow and occasional rock, one
cramponed boot at a time, secure on three points before dislodging
his ice axe and slamming it in a few feet further on. I stood on a tiny
platform I'd hacked out of the snow, belaying Gary until he'd moved out to the end of our
two-hundred-foot section of line. Then he'd anchor his end of the line with a deadman, piton,
picket, or ice screw, go
on belay himself, and I would move off—kicking the crampon points into the snow-wall rising
almost vertically to blue sky just fifty or sixty feet above me.
A
hundred yards or so behind us, Paul and Kanakaredes were doing the same—Paul in the lead and K on belay, then K
climbing and Paul belaying and resting until the bug caught up.
We
might as well have been on different planets. There was no conversation. We
used every ounce of breath to take our next gasping step, to concentrate on
precise placement of our feet and ice axes.
A twentieth-century climbing team might have taken days to
make this traverse, establishing fixed lines, retreating to their tents at Camp
Three to
eat and sleep, allowing other teams to break trail beyond the fixed ropes the next day. We did not have
that luxury. We had to make this traverse in
one try and keep moving up the ridge while the perfect weather lasted or we were screwed.
I loved it.
About five hours into the traverse, I realized that
butterflies were fluttering all around me. I looked up toward Gary on belay two hundred feet ahead and above
me. He was also watching butterflies—small motes of color dancing and weaving 23,000
feet above sea level. What the hell would Kanakaredes make of this? Would he
think this was an everyday occurrence at this altitude? Well, perhaps it was.
We humans weren't up here enough to know. I shook my head and continued
shuffling my boots and
slamming my ice axe up the impossible ridge.
The rays of the sun were horizontal in late afternoon when
all four of us came off the
knife-edge at the upper end of the traverse. The ridge was still
heart-stoppingly steep there, but it had widened out so that we could stand on it as we looked back at our
footprints on the snowy blade of the knife-edge. Even after all these
years of climbing, I still found it hard to believe that we had been able to
make those tracks.
"Hey!" shouted Gary. "I'm a fucking
giant!" He was flapping his arms and staring toward Sinkiang and the
Godwin-Austen Glacier miles below us. Altitude's got him, I thought. We'll
have to sedate him, tie him in his sleeping bag, and drag him down the way we came like so much
laundry.
"Come on!" Gary shouted to me in the high, cold
air. "Be a giant, Jake." He continued flapping his arms. I turned to
look behind me and Paul and Kanakaredes were also hopping up and down, carefully so as not to
fall off the foot-wide ridgeline, shouting and flapping their arms. It was
quite a sight to see K moving his mantisy forearms six ways at once, joints swiveling, boneless
fingers waving like big grubs. They've all lost it, I thought. Oxygen deprivation lunacy. Then I looked down and east.
Our shadows leaped out miles across the glacier and the
neighboring mountains. I raised my arms. Lowered them. My shadow atop the dark line
of ridge shadow raised and lowered shadow-arms that must have been ten miles tall.
We kept this up—jumping shouting, waving—until the sun
set behind
Broad Peak to the west and our giant selves disappeared forever.
Camp
Six—narrow bench on snow dome below
summit pyramid, 26,200 feet
No conversation or talk of listening to songs now. No
jumping or shouting or waving. Not enough oxygen here to breathe or think, much less fuck around.
Almost no conversation the last three days or nights as
we climbed the last of the broadening northeast ridge to where it ended at the
huge snow
dome, then climbed the snow dome itself. The weather stayed calm and
clear—incredible for this late in the season. The snow was deep because of the
storm that had pinned us down at Camp Three, but we took turns breaking trail—an
exhausting job at 10,000 feet, literally mind-numbing above 25,000 feet.
At night, we didn't even bother merging our tents—just
using our own
segments like bivvy bags. We heated only one warm meal a day—super-nutrient soup
on the single stove (we'd left the other behind just beyond the knife-edge
traverse, along with everything else we didn't think we'd need in the last three or
four days of climbing)—and chewed on cold n-bars at night before drifting off into
a half-doze for a few cold, restless hours before stirring at three or four A.M. to
begin climbing again by lamplight.
All of us humans had miserable headaches and high-altitude
stupidity.
Paul was in the worst shape—perhaps because of the frostbite scare way down
during his first attempt at the traverse—and he was coughing heavily and
moving sluggishly. Even K had slowed down, climbing mostly two-legged on this high
stretch, and sometimes taking a minute or more before planting his feet.
Most Himalayan mountains have ridges that go all the way
to the summit.
Not K2. Not this northeast ridge. It ended at a bulging snow dome some two
thousand feet below the summit.
We climbed the snow dome—slowly, stupidly, sluggishly,
separately. No ropes or belays here. If anyone fell to his death, it was going to be
a
solitary fall. We did not care. At and above the legendary eight-thousand-meter line,
you move into yourself and then—often—lose even yourself.
We had not brought oxygen, not even the light osmosis
booster-mask perfected in the
last decade. We had one of those masks—in case any of us became critically ill from pulmonary edema or worse—but we'd left the mask cached with the stove, most of
the rope, and other extra supplies
above Camp Four. It had seemed like a good idea at the time.
Now all I could think about was breathing. Every
move—every step—took more breath than I had, more oxygen than my system owned. Paul seemed in
even worse shape, although somehow he kept up. Gary was moving steadily, but sometimes
he betrayed his headaches and
confusion by movement or pause. He had vomited twice this morning before we moved out from Camp Six. At night,
we startled awake after only a minute
or two of half-sleep—gasping for air, clawing at our own chests, feeling as if something heavy were
lying on us and someone were actively trying to suffocate us.
Something
was trying to kill us here. Everything was. We were high in the Death Zone,
and K2 did not care one way or the other if we lived or died.
The good weather had held, but high wind and storms were
overdue. It
was the end of August. Any day or night now we could be pinned down up here for
weeks of unrelenting storms—unable to climb, unable to retreat. We could
starve to death up here. I thought of the red panic button on the palmlog.
We had told Kanakaredes about the panic button while we
heated soup
at Camp Five. The mantispid had asked to see the extra palmlog with the emergency
beacon. Then he had thrown the palmlog out the tent entrance, into the night,
over the edge.
Gary
had looked at our bug for a long minute and then grinned, extending his hand. K's foreleg had unfolded, the
mantis part swiveling, and those three fingers had encircled Gary's hand and
shaken it.
I had thought this was rather cool and heroic at the
time. Now I just wished we
had the goddamned panic button back.
We stirred, got dressed, and started heating water for
our last meal shortly after 1:30 A.M. None of us could sleep anyway, and every extra hour we spent up here
in the Death Zone meant more chance to die, more chance to fail. But we were moving so
slowly that tugging our boots on seemed to take hours, adjusting our crampons took
forever.
We moved away from the tents sometime after three A.M. We
left the tents
behind at Camp Six. If we survived the summit attempt, we'd be back.
It was unbelievably cold. Even the thermskins and smart
outer parkas
failed to make up the difference. If there had been a wind, we could not have continued.
We were now on what we called Direct Finish—the top or
bust—although our original fallback plan had been to traverse across the face of K2 to the oldest route up the northwest
Abruzzi Ridge if Direct Finish proved
unfeasible. I think that all three of us had suspected we'd end up on the Abruzzi—most of our predecessors climbing
the northeast ridge had ended up
doing so, even the legendary Reinhold Messner, perhaps the greatest climber of the twentieth century, had been forced to change his route to the easier Abruzzi Ridge
rather than suffer failure on the
Direct Finish.
Well, by early afternoon of what was supposed to have been
our summit
day, Direct Finish now seems impossible and so does the traverse to the
Abruzzi. The snow on the face of K2 is so deep that there is no hope of traversing through it to the
Abruzzi Ridge. Avalanches hurtle down the
face several times an hour. And above us—even deeper snow. We're fucked.
The day had started well. Above the almost vertical
snowdome on which we'd hacked
out a wide enough bench to lodge Camp Six, rose a huge snowfield that snaked up
and up toward the black, star-filled sky until
it became a wall. We climbed slowly, agonizingly, up the snowfield, leaving separate tracks, thinking separate
thoughts. It was getting light by the time we reached the end of the snow ramp.
Where the snowfield ended a vertical ice cliff began and
rose at least 150 feet straight up. Literally fucking vertical. The four of us stood there in the morning light, three of us
rubbing our goggles, looking stupidly at the
cliff. We'd known it was there. We'd had no idea what a bitch it was
going to be.
"I'll do the lead," gasped Paul. He could
barely walk.
He
free-climbed the fucker in less than an hour, slamming in pitons and screws and tying on the last of our rope. When
the three of us climbed slowly,
stupidly up to join him, me bringing up the rear just behind K, Paul was only
semiconscious.
Above
the ice cliff rose a steep rock band. It was so steep that snow couldn't cling there. The rock looked
rotten—treacherous—the kind of fragile crap that any sane climber would
traverse half a day to avoid.
There would be no traverse today. Any attempt to shift
laterally on the face here would almost certainly trigger an avalanche
in the soft slabs of snow
overlaying old ice.
"I'll
lead," said Gary, still looking up at the rock band. He was holding his head with both hands. I knew that Gary
always suffered the worst of the Death Zone headaches that afflicted all three
of us. For four or five days and nights now, I knew, Gary's every word
and breath had been punctuated by slivers of steel pain behind the eyes.
I
nodded and helped Paul to his feet. Gary began to climb the lower strata of
crumbling rock.
We
reach the end of the rock by midafternoon. The wind is rising. A spume of spindrift blows off the near-vertical
snow and ice above us. We cannot see
the summit. Above a narrow coloir that rises like a chimney to frigid
hell, the summit-pyramid snowfield begins. We're somewhere above 27,000 feet.
K2 is 28,250 feet high.
That last twelve hundred feet might as well be measured in
light-years.
"I'll break trail up the coloir," I hear myself
say. The others don't even nod, merely wait for me to begin. Kanakaredes is
leaning on his ice axe in a
posture I've not seen before.
My
first step up the coloir sends me into snow above my knees. This is impossible. I would weep now, except that the
tears would freeze to the inside of my goggles and blind me. It is
impossible to take another step up this
steep fucking gully. I can't even breathe. My head pounds so terribly
that my vision dances and blurs and no amount of wiping my goggles will clear it.
I lift my ice axe, slam it three feet higher, and lift my
right leg. Again. Again.
Summit
pyramid snowfield above the coloir, somewhere around 27,800
feet
Late afternoon. It will be almost dark when we reach the
summit. If we reach
the summit.
Everything depends upon the snow that rises above us
toward the impossibly dark
blue sky. If the snow is firm—nowhere as mushy and deep as the thigh-high soup I broke trail through all the way up the coloir—then we have a chance, although we'll be
descending in the dark.
But if it's deep snow . . .
"I'll lead," said Gary, shifting his small
summit-pack on his back and slogging slowly up to replace me in the lead. There is a
rock band here at the top of the narrow coloir, and he will be stepping off it
either into or onto the snow. If the surface is firm, we'll all move
onto it, using our crampons
to kick-step our way up the last couple of hours of climb to the summit—although we still cannot
see the summit from here. Please, God, let it be firm.
I try to look around me. Literally beneath my feet is a
drop to the impossibly distant knife-edge, far below that the ridge where we put Camp Two, miles and
miles lower the curving, rippled river of Godwin-Austen and a dim memory of
base camp and of living things—lichen, crows, a clump of grass where the glacier was melting. On either
side stretches the Karakoram, white peaks
thrusting up like fangs, distant summits
merging into the Himalayan peaks, and one lone peak—I'm too stupid to
even guess which one—standing high and solitary against the sky. The red hills of China burn in the thick haze of breathable atmosphere a hundred miles to the north.
"OK,"
says Gary, stepping off the rock onto the snowfield.
He
plunges in soft snow up to his waist.
Somehow Gary finds enough breath to hurl curses at the
snow, at any
and all gods who would put such deep snow here. He lunges another step up and forward.
The snow is even deeper. Gary founders almost up to his
armpits. He
slashes at the snowfield with his ice axe, batters it with his overmittens. The snowfield and K2 ignore him.
I
go to both knees on the pitched rock band and lean on my ice axe, not caring if my sobs can be heard by the others
or if my tears will freeze my
eyelids open. The expedition is over.
Kanakaredes
slowly pulls his segmented body up the last ten feet of the coloir, past Paul where Paul is retching against a boulder, past me where I am kneeling, onto the last of the solid
surface before Gary's sliding snowpit.
"I will lead for a while," says Kanakaredes.
He sets his ice axe into his harness. His prothorax shifts lower. His hind legs come
down and out. His
arms—forelegs—rotate down and forward.
Kanakaredes thrusts himself into the steep snowfield like
an Olympic swimmer diving off
the starting block. He passes Gary where Gary lies armpit deep in the soft snow.
The bug—our bug—flails and batters the snow with
his forearms, parts it with his cupped fingers, smashes it down with his armored
upper body segment, swims through the snow with all six legs paddling.
He can't possibly keep this up. It's impossible. Nothing
living has that much energy and will. It is seven or eight hundred near-vertical
feet to the summit.
K swims-kicks-fights his way fifteen feet up the slope.
Twenty-five. Thirty.
Getting to my feet, feeling my temples pounding in agony,
sensing
invisible climbers around me, ghosts hovering in the Death Zone fog of pain and confusion, I step past
Gary and start postholing upward, following
K's lead, struggling and swimming up and through the now-broken barrier
of snow.
Summit
of K2, 28,250 feet
We step onto the summit together, arm in arm. All four of
us. The final
summit ridge is just wide enough to allow this.
Many eight-thousand-meter-peak summits have overhanging
cornices. After all this
effort, the climber sometimes takes his or her final step to triumph and falls for a mile or so. We don't know if K2 is
corniced. Like many of these other climbers, we're too exhausted to care. Kanakaredes can no longer stand or walk after
breaking trail through the snowfield
for more than six hundred feet. Gary and I carry him the last hundred feet or so, our arms under his
mantis arms. I am shocked to discover
that he weighs almost nothing. All that energy, all that spirit, and K probably
weighs no more than a hundred pounds. The summit is not corniced. We do not
fall.
The weather has held, although the sun is setting. Its
last rays warm us through our parkas and thermskins. The sky is a blue deeper
than cerulean, much deeper than sapphire, incomparably deeper than aquamarine.
Perhaps this shade of blue has no word to describe it.
We can see to the curve of the earth and beyond. Two
peaks are visible above that curving horizon, their summit icefields glowing
orange in the
sunset, a great distance to the northeast, probably somewhere in Chinese
Turkistan. To the south lies the entire tumble of overlapping peaks and winding
glaciers that is the Karakoram. I make out the perfect peak that is Nanga
Parbat—Gary, Paul, and I climbed that six years ago—and closer, the Gasherbrum.
At our feet, literally at our feet, Broad Peak. Who would have thought that its
summit looked so wide and flat from above?
The
four of us are all sprawled on the narrow summit, two feet from the sheer drop-off on the north. My arms are still
around Kanakaredes, ostensibly propping him up but actually propping both of us
up.
The mantispid clicks, hisses, and squeaks. He shakes his
beak and tries again. "I
am . . . sorry," he gasps, the air audibly hissing in and out of his beak nostrils. "I ask . . .
traditionally, what do we do now? Is there a ceremony for this moment? A ritual required?"
I look at Paul, who seems to be recovering from his
earlier inertia. We both look
at Gary.
"Try not to fuck up and die," says Gary between
breaths. "More climbers die during the descent than on the way up."
Kanakaredes seems to be considering this. After a minute
he says, "Yes
but here on the summit, there must be some ritual. ..."
"Hero photos," gasps Paul.
"Gotta . . . have . . . hero photos."
Our alien nods. "Did . . . anyone . . . bring an
imaging device? A camera? I
did not."
Gary,
Paul, and I look at each other, pat our parka pockets, and then start laughing.
At this altitude, our laughter sounds like three sick seals coughing.
"Well,
no hero photos," says Gary. "Then we have to haul the flags out. Always bring a flag to the summit, that's our
human motto." This extended speech makes Gary so light-headed that
he has to put his head between his raised
knees for a minute.
"I have no flag," says Kanakaredes. "The
Listeners have never had a flag."
The sun is setting in earnest now, the last rays shining between a line of
peaks to the west, but the reddish-orange light glows brightly on our stupid, smiling faces and mittens and goggles
and ice-crusted parkas.
"We didn't bring a flag either," I say.
"This is good," says K. "So there is
nothing else we need to do?"
"Just get down alive," says Paul.
We rise together, weaving a bit, propping one another up,
retrieve our
ice axes from where we had thrust them into the glowing summit snow, and begin
retracing our steps down the long snowfield into shadow.
Godwin-Austin Glacier,
about 17,300 feet
It took us only four and a half days to get down, and
that included a day of rest at our old Camp Three on the low side of the knife-edge traverse.
The weather held the whole time. We did not get back to
our high camp—Camp
Six below the ice wall—until after three A.M. after our successful summit
day, but the lack of wind had kept our tracks clear even in lamplight, and no one slipped or
fell or suffered frostbite.
We moved quickly after that, leaving just after dawn the
next day to
get to Camp Four on the upper end of the knife-edge before night-tall . .. and before
the gods of K2 changed their minds and blew up a storm to trap us in the Death Zone.
The only incident on the lower slopes of the mountain
happened—oddly enough—on a
relatively easy stretch of snow slope below Camp Two. The four of us were picking our way down the slope, unroped, lost in our own thoughts and in the not-unpleasant haze
of exhaustion so common near the end of a climb, when K just came
loose—perhaps he tripped over one of his own
hindlegs, although he denied that later—and ended up on his stomach—or
at least the bottom of his upper shell, all
six legs spraddled, ice axe flying free, starting a slide that would have been harmless enough for the first hundred yards
or so if it had not been for the drop off that fell away to the glacier still a
thousand feet directly below.
Luckily, Gary was about a hundred feet ahead of the rest
of us and he dug in his axe,
looped a line once around himself and twice around the axe, timed K's slide perfectly, and then threw himself on his belly out onto
the ice slope, his reaching hand grabbing Kanakaredes's three fingers as slick
as a pair of aerial trapeze partners. The rope snapped taut, the axe held its place, man and mantispid swung two
and a half times like the working
end of a pendulum, and that was the end of that drama. K had to make it the
rest of the way to the glacier without an ice axe the next day, but he managed all right. And we now
know how a bug shows embarrassment—his occipital ridges blush a dark
orange.
Off the ridge at last, we roped up for the glacier but
voted unanimously to descend it by staying close to the east face of K2. The
earlier snowstorm had hidden
all the crevasses and we had heard or seen no avalanches
in the past seventy-two hours. There were far fewer crevasses near the face, but an avalanche could
catch us anywhere on the glacier. Staying near the face carried its own
risks, but it would also get us down the ice
and out of avalanche danger in half the time it would take to probe for
crevasses down the center of the glacier.
We
were two-thirds of the way down—the bright red tents of Base Camp clearly in
sight out on the rock beyond the ice—when Gary said, "Maybe we should talk
about this Olympus Mons deal, K."
"Yes,"
click-hissed our bug, "I have been looking forward to discussing this plan
and I hope that perhaps—"
We heard it then before we saw it. Several freight trains
seemed to be bearing down on
us from above, from the face of K2.
All
of us froze, trying to see the snowplume trail of the avalanche, hoping against hope that it would come out onto
the glacier far behind us. It came
off the face and across the bergeschrund a quarter of a mile directly above us and picked up speed, coming
directly at us. It looked like a white tsunami. The roar was deafening.
"Run!" shouted Gary and we all took off
downhill, not worrying if there were bottomless crevasses directly in front of us,
not caring at that point just trying against all logic to outrun a wall of snow
and ice and boulders rolling toward us at
sixty miles per hour.
I
remember now that we were roped with the last of our spidersilk—sixty-foot intervals—the lines clipped to our
climbing harnesses. It made no
difference to Gary, Paul, and me since we were running flat out and in the same direction and at about the same
speed, but I have seen mantispids move at full speed since that
day—using all six legs, their hands forming
into an extra pair of flat feet—and I know now that K could have shifted into high gear and run four
times as fast as the rest of us. Perhaps he could have beaten the avalanche
since just the south edge of its wave
caught us. Perhaps.
He did not try. He did not cut the rope. He ran with us.
The south edge of the avalanche caught us and lifted us
and pulled us under and
snapped the unbreakable spidersilk climbing rope and tossed us up and then submerged us again and swept us all
down into the crevasse field at the
bottom of the glacier and separated us forever.
Washington,
D.C.
Sitting
here in the secretary of state's waiting room three months after that day, I've had time to think about it.
All of us—everyone on the planet, even the bugs—have
been preoccupied
in the past couple of months as the Song has begun and increased in complexity and
beauty. Oddly enough, it's not that distracting, the Song. We go about our business. We work
and talk and eat and watch HDTV and make love and sleep, but always there
now—always in the background whenever one wants to listen—is the Song.
It's
unbelievable that we've never heard it before this.
No one calls them bugs or mantispids or the Listeners
anymore. Everyone, in every
language, calls them the Bringers of the Song.
Meanwhile, the Bringers keep reminding us that they did
not bring the Song, only taught us how to listen to it.
I don't know how or why I survived when none of the
others did. The theory is
that one can swim along the surface of a snow avalanche, but the reality was that none of us had the
slightest chance to try. That wide
wall of snow and rock just washed over us and pulled us down and spat out only me, for reasons known, perhaps, only
to K2 and most probably not even to it.
They found me naked and battered more than three-quarters
of a mile
from where we had started running from the avalanche. They never found Gary, Paul, or Kanakaredes.
The emergency CMGs were there within three minutes—they
must have
been poised to intervene all that time—but after twenty hours of deep probing and sonar
searching, just when the marines and the bureaucrats were ready to lase away the whole
lower third of the glacier if necessary to recover my friends' bodies, it was
Speaker Aduradake—Kanakaredes's
father and mother, it turned out—who forbade it.
"Leave them wherever they are," he instructed
the fluttering UN bureaucrats
and frowning marine colonels. "They died together on your world and should remain together within the
embrace of your world. Their part of the song is joined now."
And the Song began—or at least was first heard—about one
week later.
A male aide to the secretary comes out, apologizes
profusely for my having to
wait—Secretary Bright Moon was with the president—and shows me into the
secretary of state's office. The aide and I stand there waiting.
I've seen football games played in smaller areas than
this office.
The secretary comes in through a different door a minute
later and leads
me over to two couches facing each other rather than to the uncomfortable chair
near her huge desk. She seats me across from her, makes sure that I don't want any coffee or
other refreshment, nods away her aide,
commiserates with me again on the death of my dear friends (she had been
there at the memorial service at which the president had spoken), chats with me for another minute about how
amazing life is now with the Song
connecting all of us, and then questions me for a few minutes, sensitively, solicitously, about my
physical recovery (complete), my
state of mind (shaken but improving), my generous stipend from the government
(already invested), and my plans for the future.
"That's the reason I asked for this meeting," I
say. "There was that promise
of climbing Olympus Mons."
She stares at me.
"On Mars," I add needlessly.
Secretary Betty Willard Bright Moon nods and sits back
in the cushions. She brushes some invisible lint from her navy blue skirt.
"Ah, yes," she says, her voice still pleasant but holding some hint
of that flintiness I remember so well from our Top of the World meeting.
"The Bringers have confirmed that they intend to honor that promise."
I wait.
"Have you decided who your next climbing partners
will be?" she asked, taking out an obscenely
expensive and micron-thin platinum palmlog as if she is going to take notes herself to help facilitate this whim of mine.
"Yeah," I said.
Now
it was the secretary's turn to wait.
"I
want Kanakaredes's brother," I say. "His . . . creche brother."
Betty Willard Bright Moon's jaw almost drops open. I
doubt very much if she's reacted this visibly to a statement in her last thirty
years of professional
negotiating, first as a take-no-prisoners Harvard academic and most recently as secretary of state.
"You're serious," she says.
"Yes."
"Anyone else other than this particular
bu—Bringer?"
"No one else."
"And you're sure he even exists?"
"I'm sure."
"How do you know if he wants to risk his life on a
Martian volcano?" she asks, her poker face back in place. "Olympus
Mons is taller than K2, you know. And it's probably more dangerous."
I
almost, not quite, smile at this news flash. "He'll go," I say.
Secretary
Bright Moon makes a quick note in her palmlog and then hesitates. Even though
her expression is perfectly neutral now, I know that she is trying to decide whether to ask a question that she might
not get the chance to ask later.
Hell,
knowing that question was coming and trying to decide how to answer it is the reason I didn't come to visit
her a month ago, when I decided to do
this thing. But then I remembered Kanakaredes's answer when we asked him
why the bugs had come all this way to visit us. He had read his Mallory and he had understood Gary, Paul, and me—and
something about the human race—that this woman never would.
She
makes up her mind to ask her question.
"Why . . . ," she begins. "Why do you want
to climb it?"
Despite everything that's happened, despite knowing that
she'll never understand,
despite knowing what an asshole she'll always consider me after this moment, I have to smile before I give her the
answer.
"Because it's there."
Dan Simmons - Redshift 1 - On K2 with Kanakaredes (v1.0)
Scanned & proofed by unknown.
Converted to HTML, re-proofed & re-formatted by nukie.
Yikes!
Here's a story leading off this so-called cutting edge anthology
that could have been published (minus the naughty language)
anywhere in the science fiction field in the last forty years.
And by that I mean just about any magazine or anthology—or
a number of same outside the field. I could see this one in the Saturday
Evening Post in 1968, for crissakes. What gives? I'll
tell you what gives: this story is great fiction today, forty years
ago, or forty years in the future. Great fiction transcends any definition of
cutting edge or New Wave. Or genre labels. Or any other kind of
baloney. Dan Simmons is well known to you all, or should be. He is the author
of Hyperion, The Fall of Hyperion, The Song of Kali, and
many other sf and horror novels. He's won numerous
awards, including the Bram Stoker Award, the World
Fantasy Award, and the Hugo Award, and also has conquered the
spy thriller and suspense fields. He's
also responsible for the inclusion of one of the other great stories in this book, as
you shall see. But that's later; for now: enjoy the hell out of
the following.
On K2 with Kanakaredes
Dan Simmons
The
South Col of Everest, 26,200 feet
If
we hadn't decided to acclimate ourselves for the K2 attempt by secretly climbing to the eight-thousand-meter mark
on Everest, a stupid mountain that no
self-respecting climber would go near anymore, they wouldn't have caught us and we wouldn't have been forced to make the real climb with an alien and the rest
of it might not have happened. But we did and we were and it did.
What
else is new? It's as old as Chaos theory. The best-laid plans of mice and men and so forth and so on. As if you have
to tell that to a climber.
Instead
of heading directly for our Concordia Base Camp at the foot of K2, the three of us had used Gary's nifty little
stealth CMG to fly northeast into the
Himalayas, straight to the bergeschrund of the Khumbu Glacier at
23,000 feet. Well, fly almost straight to the glacier; we had to zig and zag to stay under HK Syndicate
radar and to avoid seeing or being seen by that stinking prefab pile of
Japanese shit called the Everest Base Camp
Hotel (rooms US $4,500 a night, not counting Himalayan access fee and
CMG limo fare).
We
landed without being detected (or so we thought), made sure the vehicle was safely tucked away from the icefalls,
seracs, and avalanche paths, left the
CMG set in conceal mode, and started our Alpine-style conditioning climb to the South Col. The weather
was brilliant. The conditions were
perfect. We climbed brilliantly. It was the stupidest thing the three of us had ever done.
By late on the third afternoon we had reached the South
Col, that narrow, miserable,
windswept notch of ice and boulders wedged high between the shoulders of Lhotse and Everest. We activated our little smart
tents, merged them, anchored them hard to ice-spumed rock, and keyed them white
to keep them safe from prying eyes.
Even on a beautiful late-summer Himalayan evening such
as the one we enjoyed that
day, weather on the South Col sucks. Wind velocities average higher than those
encountered near the summit of Everest. Any high-climber
knows that when you see a stretch of relatively flat rock free of snow,
it means hurricane winds. These arrived on schedule just about at sunset of that third day. We hunkered
down in the communal tent and made soup. Our plan was to spend two
nights on the South Col and acclimate
ourselves to the lower edge of the Death Zone before heading down and flying on to Concordia for our
legal K2 climb. We had no intention of
climbing higher than the South Col on Everest. Who would?
At least the view was less tawdry since the Syndicate
cleaned up Everest and the South Col, flying off more than a century's worth of expedition
detritus—ancient fixed ropes, countless tent tatters, tons of frozen human
excrement, about a million abandoned oxygen bottles, and a few hundred frozen corpses. Everest
in the twentieth century had been the
equivalent of the old Oregon Trail—everything that could be abandoned had been,
including climbers' dead friends.
Actually, the view that evening was rather good. The Col
drops off to the east for about four thousand feet into what used to be Tibet
and falls
even more sharply—about seven thousand feet—to the Western Cwm. That evening,
the high ridges of Lhotse and the entire visible west side of Everest caught the rich,
golden sunset for long minutes after the Col moved into shadow and then the
temperature at our campsite dropped about a hundred degrees. There was not, as
we outdoors people like to
say, a cloud in the sky. The high peaks glowed in all their eight-thousand-meter glory, snowfields burning
orange in the light. Gary and Paul lay in the open door of the tent,
still wearing their therm-skin uppers, and
watched the stars emerge and shake to the hurricane wind as I fiddled and fussed with the stove to
make soup. Life was good. Suddenly
an incredibly amplified voice bellowed, "You there in the tent!"
I almost pissed my thermskins. I did spill the
soup, slopping it all over Paul's sleeping bag.
"Fuck," I said.
"God damn it," said Gary, watching the black
CMG—its UN markings glowing and powerful searchlights stabbing—settle gently onto small boulders not
twenty feet from the tent.
"Busted," said Paul.
Hillary
Room, Top of the World, 29,035 feet
Two years in an HK floating prison wouldn't have been as
degrading as
being made to enter that revolving restaurant on the top of Everest. All three of us
protested, Gary the loudest since he was the oldest and richest, but the four
UN security guys in the CMG just cradled their standard-issue Uzis and said nothing until the vehicle had
docked in the restaurant airlock-garage and
the pressure had been equalized. We stepped
out reluctantly and followed other security guards deeper into the closed and darkened restaurant even more
reluctantly. Our ears were going crazy. One minute we'd been camping at
26,000 feet, and a few minutes later the
pressure was the standard airline equivalent of 5,000 feet. It was painful,
despite the UN CMC's attempt to match pressures while it circled the
dark hulk of Everest for ten minutes.
By the time we were led into the Hillary Room to the only
lighted table
in the place, we were angry and in pain.
"Sit
down," said Secretary of State Betty Willard Bright Moon.
We sat. There was no mistaking the tall, sharp-featured
Blackfoot woman in the gray suit. Every pundit agreed that she was the single
toughest and most interesting personality in the Cohen Administration, and the
four U.S. Marines in combat garb standing in the shadows behind her only added
to her already imposing sense of authority. The three of us sat, Gary closest to the
dark window wall across from Secretary Bright Moon, Paul next to him, and me farthest away from the
action. It was our usual climbing pattern.
On
the expensive teak table in front of Secretary Bright Moon were three blue dossiers. I couldn't read the tabs on
them, but I had little doubt about
their contents: Dossier #1, Gary Sheridan, forty-nine, semi-retired, former CEO of SherPath International,
multiple addresses around the world,
made his first millions at age seventeen during the long lost and rarely lamented dot-corn gold rush of yore, divorced (four times), a man of many passions, the
greatest of which was mountain
climbing; Dossier #2, Paul Ando Hiraga, twenty-eight, ski bum, professional
guide, one of the world's best rock-and-ice climbers, unmarried; Dossier #3, Jake Richard Pettigrew, thirty-six, (address: Boulder, Colorado), married, three children,
high-school math teacher, a good-to-average
climber with only two eight-thousand-meter peaks bagged, both thanks to Gary
and Paul, who invited him to join them on international climbs
for the six previous years. Mr. Pettigrew still cannot believe his good luck at having a friend and patron
bankroll his climbs, especially when both Gary and Paul were far better
climbers with much more experience. But
perhaps the dossiers told of how Jake, Paul, and Gary had become close friends as well as climbing partners over the past
few years, friends who trusted each other to the point of trespassing on
the Himalayan Preserve just to get
acclimated for the climb of their lives.
Or perhaps the blue folders were just some State
Department busy-work that had nothing to do with us.
"What's
the idea of hauling us up here?" asked Gary, his voice controlled but tight. Very tight. "If the Hong
Kong Syndicate wants to throw us in
the slammer, fine, but you and the UN can't just drag us somewhere
against our will. We're still U.S. citizens. . . ."
"U.S. citizens who have broken HK Syndicate Preserve
rules and UN
World Historical Site laws," snapped Secretary Bright Moon.
"We have a valid permit . . . ," began Gary
again. His forehead looked
very red just below the line of his cropped white hair.
"To climb K2, commencing three days from now,"
said the Secretary of State. "Your climbing team won the HK lottery. We know. But that
permit does not allow you to enter or overfly the Himalayan Preserve, or to
trespass on Mount Everest."
Paul
glanced at me. I shook my head. I had no idea what was going on. We could have stolen
Mount Everest and it wouldn't have brought Secretary Betty Willard Bright Moon flying around the world to sit in this
darkened revolving restaurant just to slap our wrists.
Gary
shrugged and sat back. "So what do you want?"
Secretary Bright Moon opened the closest blue dossier and
slid a photo
across the polished teak toward us. We huddled to look at it.
"A bug? "said Gary.
"They prefer Listener" said the
secretary of state. "But mantispid will do."
"What do the bugs have to do with us?" said
Gary.
"This
particular bug wants to climb K2 with you in three days," said Secretary Bright Moon. "And the government of
the United States of America in
cooperation with the Listener Liaison and Cooperation Council of the United
Nations fully intend to have him ... or her . . . do so."
Paul's jaw dropped. Gary clasped his hands behind his
head and laughed. I just
stared. Somehow I found my voice first.
"That's
impossible," I said.
Secretary
Betty Willard Bright Moon turned her flat, dark-eyed gaze on me. "Why?"
Normally
the combination of that woman's personality, her position, and those eyes would
have stopped me cold, but this was too absurd to ignore. I just held out my hands, palms upward. Some things are too obvious
to explain. "The bugs have six legs," I said at last. "They look
like they can hardly walk. We're
climbing the second tallest mountain on earth—And the most savage."
Secretary Bright Moon did not blink. "The bu—The
mantispids seem to get around their freehold in Antarctica quite well,"
she said flatly.
"And sometimes they walk on two legs."
Paul snorted. Gary kept his hands clasped behind his
head, his shoulders back, posture relaxed, but his eyes were flint. "I
presume that if this bug
climbed with us, that you'd hold us responsible for his safety and well-being," he said.
The
secretary's head turned as smoothly as an owl's. "You presume
correctly," she said. "That would be our first concern. The safety of
the Listeners is always our first concern."
Gary lowered his hands and shook his head.
"Impossible. Above eight thousand meters, no one can help anyone."
"That's why they call that altitude the Death
Zone," said Paul. He sounded angry.
Bright Moon ignored Paul and kept her gaze locked with
Gary's. She had spent too
many decades steeped in power, negotiation, and political in-fighting not to know who our leader was.
"We can make the climb safer," she said. "Phones, CMGs on
immediate call, uplinks . . ."
Gary
was shaking his head again. "We do this climb without phones and medevac
capability from the mountain."
"That's absurd . . .," began the secretary of
state.
Gary cut her off. "That's the way it is," he
said. "That's what real mountaineers do in this day and age. And what we
don't do is come to this fucking obscenity of a restaurant." He gestured
toward the darkened Hillary Room to our right, the gesture including all the revolving
Top of the World. One of the marines blinked at Gary's obscenity.
Secretary Bright Moon did not blink. "All right, Mr.
Sheridan. The phones and CMG medevacs are not negotiable. I presume everything else is."
Gary said nothing for a minute. Finally, "I presume
that if we say no, that
you're going to make our lives a living hell."
The secretary of state smiled ever so slightly. "I
think that all of you will find that there will be no more visas for foreign
climbs," she said. "Ever. And all of you may encounter
difficulties with your taxes soon. Especially you, Mr. Sheridan, since your corporate accounts are so ... complicated."
Gary
returned her smile. For an instant it seemed as if he were actually enjoying this. "And if we said
yes," he said slowly, almost drawling, "what's in it for
us?"
Bright Moon nodded, and one of the lackeys to her left
opened another
dossier and slid a slick color photograph across the table toward us. Again all
three of us leaned forward to look. Paul frowned. It took me a minute to figure out what it was—some
sort of reddish shield volcano. Hawaii?
"Mars,"
Gary said softly. "Olympus Mons."
Secretary Bright Moon said, "It is more than twice
as tall as Mount Everest."
Gary laughed easily. "Twice as tall? Shit, woman,
Olympus Mons is more than three times the height of Everest—more than eighty-eight thousand feet high,
three hundred and thirty-five miles in diameter. The caldera is fifty-three miles wide.
Christ, the outward facing cliff ringing the bottom of the thing is taller than
Everest—thirty-two thousand eight hundred feet, vertical with an overhang."
Bright
Moon had finally blinked at the "Shit, woman"—I wondered wildly when the last time had been that someone
had spoken to this secretary of state like that—but now she smiled.
Gary
said, "So what? The Mars program is dead. We chickened out, just like with
the Apollo Program seventy-five years ago. Don't tell me that you're offering to send us there, because we
don't even have the technology to go back."
"The
bugs do," said Secretary Bright Moon. "And if you agree to let the
son of the mantispid speaker climb K2 with you, the Listeners guarantee that they will transport you to Mars within
twelve months—evidently the transit
time will be only two weeks in each direction—and they'll outfit a mountain-climbing expedition up
Olympus Mons for you. Pressure suits,
rebreathers, the whole nine yards."
The
three of us exchanged glances. We did not have to discuss this. We looked back at the photograph. Finally Gary
looked up at Bright Moon. "What
do we have to do other than climb with him?"
"Keep him alive if you can," she said.
Gary shook his head. "You heard Paul. Above eight
thousand meters, we can't guarantee even keeping ourselves alive."
The secretary nodded, but said softly, "Still, if we
added a simple emergency calling device to one of your palmlogs—a distress beacon, as it were—this would allow us to come
quickly to evacuate the mantispid if there
were a problem or illness or injury to him, without interfering with the
... integrity ... of the rest of your climb."
"A red panic button," said Gary, but the three
of us exchanged dances again. This idea was distasteful but reasonable in its way. Besides, once the bug
was taken off the hill, for whatever reason, the three of us could get on with
the climb and maybe still get a crack at Olympus Mons. "What else?" Gary
asked the woman.
Secretary Bright Moon folded her hands and lowered her
gaze a moment. When she looked up again, her gaze appeared to be candid.
"You gentlemen know how
little the mantispids have talked to us ...
how little technology they have shared with us—"
"They gave us CMG," interrupted Gary.
"Yes," said Bright Moon, "CMG in exchange
for their Antarctic freehold. But we've only had hints of the other wonders
they could share with
us—generation starflight technology, a cure for cancer, free energy. The Listeners just . . . well, listen.
This is the first overture they've made."
The three of us waited.
"We
want you to record everything this son of the speaker says during the climb," said Secretary Bright Moon. "Ask
questions. Listen to the answers. Make friends with him if you can.
That's all."
Gary
shook his head. "We don't want to wear a wire." Before Bright Moon could object, he went on, "We have to
wear thermskins—molecular heat
membranes. We're not going to wear wires under or over them."
The secretary looked as if she was ready to order the
marines to shoot Gary and probably throw Paul and me out the window, not that the window could be opened.
The whole damned restaurant was pressurized.
"I'll
do it," I said.
Gary and Paul looked at me in surprise. I admit that I
was also surprised at the offer. I shrugged. "Why not? My folks died of
cancer. I wouldn't
mind finding a cure. You guys can weave a recording wire into my overparka. Or I
can use the recorder in my palmlog. I'll record the bug when I can, but
I'll summarize the other conversations on my palm-log. You know, keep a
record of things."
Secretary Betty Willard Bright Moon looked as if she
were swallowing gall, but she nodded, first to us and then at the marine guards. The
marines
came around the table to escort us back to the UN CMG.
"Wait,"
said Gary before we were led away. "Does this bug have a name?"
"Kanakaredes,"
said the secretary of state, not even looking up at us.
"Sounds
Greek," said Paul.
"I seriously doubt it," said Secretary Bright
Moon.
K2 Base Camp, 16,500
feet
I guess I expected a little flying saucer—a smaller
version of the shuttle craft the bugs had first landed near the UN nine years earlier—but they all arrived in an oversize, bright
red DaimlerChrysler CMG. I saw them first
and shouted. Gary and Paul came out of the supply tent where they had been triple-checking our
provisions.
Secretary Bright Moon wasn't there to see us off, of
course—we hadn't
spoken to her since the night at the Top of the World three days earlier—but
the Listener Liaison guy, William Grimes, and two of his aides got out of the
CMG, as did two bugs, one slightly larger than the other. The smaller mantispid
had some sort of clear, bubbly backpack along his dorsal ridge, nestled in the V
where its main body section joined the prothorax.
The three of us crossed the boulder field until we were
facing the five of them. It was the first time I had ever seen the aliens in
person—I mean,
who ever sees a bug in person?—and I admit that I was nervous. Behind us, above us, spindrift and cloud
whirled from the ridges and summit of K2. If
the mantispids smelled weird, I couldn't pick it up since the breeze was
blowing from behind the three of us.
"Mr. Sheridan, Mr. Hiraga, Mr. Pettigrew," said
the bureaucrat Grimes, "may I introduce Listener Speaker Aduradake and his ... son . . .
Kanakaredes."
The taller of the two bugs unfolded that weird arm or
foreleg, swiveled the short
forearm thing up like a praying mantis unlimbering, and offered Gary its
three-fingered hand. Gary shook it. Paul shook it. I shook it. It felt
boneless.
The shorter bug watched, its two primary eyes black and
unreadable, its smaller
side-eyes lidded and sleepy-looking. It—Kanakaredes—did not offer to shake
hands.
"My
people thank you for agreeing to allow Kanakaredes to accompany you on this
expedition," said Speaker Aduradake. I don't know if they used implanted
voice synthesizers to speak to us—I think not—but the English came out as a carefully modulated series of clicks and
sighs. Quite understandable, but
strange, very strange.
"No problem," said Gary.
It
looked as if the UN bureaucrats wanted to say more—make some speeches, perhaps—but Speaker Aduradake swiveled on
his four rear legs and picked his way
across the boulders to the CMC's ramp. The humans scurried to catch up. Half a
minute later and the vehicle was nothing more than a red speck in the blue
southern sky.
The four of us stood there silent for a second, listening
to the wind howl around the remaining seracs of the Godwin-Austen Glacier and
through niches in the wind-carved boulders. Finally Gary said, "You bring all the shit we e-mailed you
about?"
"Yes," said Kanakaredes. His forearms swiveled
in their high sockets, the long mantis femur moved up and back, and the third
segment swiveled downward so
that the soft, three-fingered hands could pat the clear pack on his back.
"Brought all the shit, just as you e-mailed." His clicks and sighs sounded just like the other
bug's.
"Compatible North Face smart tent?" said Gary.
The bug nodded—or at least I took that movement of the
broad, beaked
head as a nod. Gary must also have. "Rations for two weeks?" he asked.
"Yes," said Kanakaredes.
"We have the climbing gear for you," said Gary.
"Grimes said that you've
practiced with it all—crampons, ropes, knots, weblines, ice axe, jumars—that you've been on a mountain
before."
"Mount
Erebus," said Kanakaredes. "I have practiced there for some months."
Gary sighed. "K2 is a little different from Mount
Erebus."
We were all silent again for a bit. The wind howled and
blew my long hair forward
around my face. Finally Paul pointed up the glacier where it curved near Base Camp and rose toward the east side of K2 and beneath the back side of Broad Peak. I could just
see the icefall where the glacier met the Abruzzi Ridge on K2. That ridge, path
of the first attempt on the mountain and line of the first successful
summit assault, was our fallback route if our
attempt on the North-East Ridge and East Face fell behind schedule.
"You see, we could fly over the glacier and start
the climb from the base of the Abruzzi at eighteen thousand feet," said
Paul, "miss all the crevasse
danger that way, but it's part of the climb to start from here."
Kanakaredes said nothing. His two primary eyes had clear
membranes,
but the eyes never blinked. They stared blackly at Paul. The other two eyes were looking God knows
where.
I felt that I should say something. Anything. I cleared
my throat.
"Fuck
it," said Gary. "We're burning daylight. Let's load 'em up and move 'em out."
Camp One, North-East
Ridge, about 18,300 feet
They call K2 "the savage mountain" and a
hundred other names—all respectful. It's a killer mountain; more men and women
have died on it m terms of
percentage of those attempting to climb it than on any other peak in the Himalayas or
the Karakoram. It is not malevolent. It is simply
the Zen-essence of mountain—hard, tall, pyramidal when seen from the
south in the perfect child's-drawing iconic model of the Matterhorn, jagged, steep, knife-ridged, racked by frequent
avalanches and unearthly storms, its essentially airless summit almost
continuously blasted by the jet
stream. No contortion of sentiment or personification can suggest that this mountain gives the slightest shit about
human hopes or human life. In a way
that is impossible to articulate and politically incorrect even to suggest, K2 is profoundly masculine. It is
eternally indifferent and absolutely unforgiving. Climbers have loved it
and triumphed on it and died on it for more
than a century.
Now
it was our turn to see which way this particular prayer wheel turned.
Have you ever watched a mantispid bug walk? I mean, we've
all seen them
on HDTV or VirP—there's an entire satellite channel dedicated to them, for Christ's sake—but usually
that's just quick cuts, long-lens images, or static shots of the bug speaker
and some political bigshots standing around
somewhere. Have you ever watched them -walk for any length of
time?
In crossing the upper reaches of the Godwin-Austen Glacier
under the
11,000-foot vertical wall that is the east face of K2, you have two choices. You can stay near the edges of
the glacier, where there are almost no
crevasses, and risk serious avalanche danger, or you can stick to the
center of the glacier and never know when the snow and ice underfoot is
suddenly going to collapse into a hidden crevasse. Any climber worth his or her
salt will choose the crevasse-route if there's even a hint of avalanche risk.
Skill and experience can help you avoid crevasses; there's not a goddamn thing in the world you can do except pray when an avalanche comes your way.
To climb the glacier, we had to rope up. Gary, Paul, and
I had discussed
this—whether or not to rope with the bug—but when we reached the part of
the glacier where crevasses would be most probable, inevitable actually, we
really didn't have a choice. It would have been murder to let Kanakaredes proceed
unroped.
One
of the first things all of us thought when the bugs landed almost ten years ago was "Are they wearing clothes?
" We know now that they weren't—that their weird combination of
chitinous exoskeleton on their main body
section and layers of different membranes on the softer parts serve well in lieu of clothing—but that doesn't
mean that they go around with their
sexual parts showing. Theoretically, mantispids are sexual
creatures—male or female—but I've never heard of a human being who's seen a bug's genitals, and I can
testify that Gary, Paul, and I didn't want to be the first.
Still, the aliens rig themselves with toolbelts or
harnesses or whatever when necessary—just as Kanakaredes had shown up with that weird bubble-pack on his
back with all his climbing gear in it—and as soon as we started the ascent,
he removed a harness from that pack and rigged it around that chunky, almost armored
upper section of himself where his arm and midleg sockets were. He also used a
regulation-size metal ice
axe, gripping the curved metal top in those three boneless fingers. It seemed strange to see something as prosaic as a
red nylon climbing harness and carabiners and an ice axe on a bug, but
that's what he had.
When it came time to rope up, we clipped the spidersilk
line onto our 'biners, passing the line back in our usual climbing order,
except that
this time—instead of Paul's ass slowly slogging up the glacier in front of me—I got to
watch Kanakaredes plod along ten paces ahead of me for hour after hour.
"Plod along" really doesn't do bug locomotion
justice. We've all seen a bug balance and walk on its midlegs, standing more
upright on those balancing
legs, its back straightening, its head coming up until it's tall enough to
stare a short human male in the eye, forelegs suddenly looking more like real
arms than praying mantis appendages—but I suspect now that they do that just for that reason—to appear more human in their rare public appearances. So far, Kanakaredes
had stood on just two legs only during the formal meeting back at Base
Camp. As soon as we started hiking up the glacier, his head came down and
forward, that V between his main body
section and prothorax widened, those mantis-arms stretched far forward like a
human extending two poles ahead of him, and he fell into a seemingly
effortless four-legged motion.
But, Jesus Christ, what a weird motion. All of a bug's
legs have three joints, of course, but I realized after only a few minutes of following
this particular
bug up the Godwin-Austen Glacier that those joints never seem to bend the
same way at the same time. One of those praying mantis forelegs would be double bent forward
and down so that Kanakaredes could plant
his ice axe in the slope, while the other bent forward and then back so that he could scratch that weird beak
of a snout. At the same time, the midlegs would be bending rather like a
horse's, only instead of a hoof, the lower, shortest section ended in those
chitinous but somehow dainty, divided . . .
hell, I don't know, hoof-feet. And the hind legs, the ones socketed at the base
of the soft prothorax . . . those are the ones that made me dizzy as I watched the bug climbing through soft snow
in front of me. Sometimes the alien's knees—those first joints about two-thirds of the way down the legs—would be
higher than his back. At other times one knee would be bending forward,
the other one back, while the lower joints were doing even stranger things.
After a while, I gave up trying to figure out the engineering of the creature, and just began admiring the easy way it moved up the steep snow and ice. The three of us
had worried about the small surface area of a bug's feet on snow—the V-shaped hoof-things aren't even as large as an unshod human foot—and wondered if we'd be tugging the
mantispid out of
every drift on our way up the mountain, but Kanakaredes managed quite well,
thank you. I guess it was due to the fact that I guessed at that time that he probably
weighed only about 150 pounds, and that weight was spread out over four—and sometimes
six, when he tucked the ice
axe in his harness and scrambled—walking surfaces. To tell the truth, the bug had to help me slog clear of deep snow two or three times on the upper reaches of the glacier.
During
the afternoon, with the sun blazing on the reflective bowl of ice that was the glacier, it got damned hot. The
three of us humans damped our
thermskin controls way down and shed our parka outer layers to cool off.
The bug seemed comfortable enough, although he rested without complaint while we rested, drank water from his water bottle when
we paused to drink, and chewed on something that looked like a shingle made of compressed dog poop while we
munched our nutrient bars (which, I
realize now, also looked a lot like a shingle made of compressed dog poop). If Kanakaredes suffered from
overheating or chill that first long day on the glacier, he didn't show
it.
Long
before sunset, the mountain shadow had moved across us and three of the four of us were raising our thermskin
thresholds and tugging on the parka shells again. It had begun snowing.
Suddenly a huge avalanche calved off the east face of K2 and swept down the
slope behind us, boiling and rolling over a
part of the glacier we had been climbing just an hour earlier.
We all froze in our tracks until the rumbling stopped.
Our tracks in the shadowed snow—rising in a more-or-less straight line for a
thousand-foot elevation gain
over the last mile or so—looked like they had been rubbed out by a giant eraser
for a swath of several hundred yards.
"Holy
shit," I said.
Gary
nodded, breathing a little hard since he had been breaking trail for most of the afternoon, turned, took a step,
and disappeared.
For the last hours, whoever had been in the lead had
probed ahead with his ice axe to make sure that the footing ahead was real and not
just a skim of snow over a
deep crevasse. Gary had taken two steps without doing this. And the crevasse
got him.
One instant he was there, red parka glowing against the
shadowed ice and the white snow on the ridge now so close ahead of
us, and the next instant
he was gone.
And then Paul disappeared as well.
No one screamed or reacted poorly. Kanakaredes instantly
braced himself in full-belay
posture, slammed his ice axe deep into the ice beneath him, and wrapped the
line around it twice before the thirty feet or so of slack between him and Paul had played out. I did the same, digging
crampons in as hard as I could, fully expecting the crevasse to pull the
bug in and then me.
It didn't.
The line snapped taut but did not snap—genetically
tailored spider-silk climbing rope almost never breaks—Kanakaredes's ice axe stayed firm, as did the bug holding it in the
glacier ice, and the two of us held them. We
waited a full minute in our rigid postures, making sure that we weren't also standing on a thin crust over a
crevasse, but when it was obvious where the crevasse rim was, I gasped,
"Keep them tight," un-clipped, and crawled forward to peer down the
black gap.
I
have no idea how deep the crevasse was—a hundred feet? A thousand? But both Paul and Gary were dangling
there—Paul a mere fifteen feet or so down, still in the light, looking fairly comfortable
as he braced his back against the blue-green ice wall and rigged his climbing
jumars. That clamp and cam device,
infinitely lighter and stronger but otherwise no different than the jumars our
grandfathers might have used, would
get him back up on his own as long as the rope held and as soon as he
could get the footloops attached.
Gary did not look so comfortable. Almost forty feet down,
hanging headfirst
under an icy overhang so that only his crampons and butt caught the light, he looked as if he might
be in trouble. If he had hit his head on the ice on the way down . . .
Then
I heard him cursing—the incredible epithets and shouts almost muffled in the
crevasse, but still echoing deep as he cursed straight into the underbelly of
the glacier—and I knew that he was all right.
It took only a minute or so for Paul to jumar up and over
the lip, but
getting Gary rightside up and then lifted up over the overhang so he could attach his own jumars took a bit
longer and involved some manhauling.
That's when I discovered how goddamned strong this bug
was. I think
that Kanakaredes could have hauled all three of us out of that crevasse if we'd been unconscious, almost
six hundred pounds of dead weight. And I
think he could have done it using only one of those skinny, almost muscleless-looking praying mantis
forearms of his.
When Gary was out and untangled from his lines, harness,
and jumars,
we moved carefully around the crevasse, me in the lead and probing with my axe like
a blind man in a vale of razor blades, and when we'd reached a good site for Camp One just at
the base of the ridge, offering only a short climb in the morning to the crest
of the northeast ridge that would eventually take us up onto the shoulder of K2
itself, we found a spot in the last patch of
sun, unhooked the rope from our carabiners, dumped our
seventy-five-pound packs, and just gasped for a while before setting up camp.
"Fucking
good beginning to the goddamned motherfucking expedition," said Gary between slugs on his water bottle. "Absolutely
bastardly motherfucking brilliant—I
walk into a goddamned sonofabitching whore-mongering crevasse like some
pissant whoreson fucking day tripper."
I
looked over at Kanakaredes. Who could read a bug's expression? That endless mouth with all its jack-o'-lantern
bumps and ridges, wrapped two-thirds around its head from its beaky
proboscis almost to the beginning of its
bumpy skullcrest, always seemed to be smiling. Was it smiling more now? Hard to tell, and I was in no
mood to ask.
One
thing was clear. The mantispid had a small, clear device out—something very similar to our credit card
palmlogs—and was entering data with a flurry of its three fingers. A
lexicon, I thought. Either translating or
recording Gary's outburst which was, I admit, a magnificent flow of invective. He was still weaving a
brilliant tapestry of obscenity that showed no sign of abating and which would
probably hang over the Godwin-Austen Glacier like a blue cloud for years
to come. Good luck using this vocabulary during one
of your UN cocktail parties, I thought to Kanakaredes as he finished his data entry and repacked
his palmlog.
When Gary finally trailed off, I exchanged grins with
Paul—who had said nothing
since dropping into the crevasse—and we got busy breaking out the smart tents, the sleeping bags, and the stoves before
darkness dropped Camp One into deep
lunar cold.
Camp
Two, between a cornice and an avalanche slope, about 20,000 feet
I'm keeping these recordings for the State Department
intelligence people and all the rest who want to learn everything about the bugs—about the mantispids'
technology, about their reasons for coming to Earth, about their culture and
religions—all the things they've somehow neglected to tell us in the past nine and a half years.
Well, here's the sum total of my recording of human-mantispid conversation from last night at Camp One—
GARY: Uh . . . Kan . . . Kanakaredes? We were thinking
of merging
our three tents and cooking up some soup and hitting the sack early. You have any
problem keeping your tent separate tonight? There's room on this snow slab for both tent
parts.
Kanakaredes: I have no problem with that.
So much for interrogating our bug.
***
We
should be higher tonight. We had a long, strong day of climbing today, but
we're still on the low part of the northeast ridge and we have to do better if
we're going to get up this hill and down safely in the two weeks allotted to us.
All this "Camp One" and "Camp Two"
stuff I'm putting in this palmlog diary are old terms from the last century when
attempts at eight-thousand-meter peaks literally demanded armies of men and women—more than two
hundred people hauling supplies for the first American Everest expedition in 1963.
Some of the peaks were pyramid-shaped but all the logistics were. By that
I mean that scores of porters
hauled in uncounted tons of supplies—Sherpa porters and high-climbers in the Himalayas, primarily Balti porters here in the
Karakoram—and teams of men and women man-hauled these tons up the
mountains, working in relays to establish camps to last the duration of the climb, breaking and marking trail,
establishing fixed ropes up literally
miles of slope, and moving teams of climbers up higher and higher until, after weeks, sometimes months of
effort, a very few of the best and
luckiest climbers—say six or four or two or even one from the scores who started—were in a position to make
an attempt on the summit from a high camp—usually Camp Six, but sometimes Camp
Seven or higher—starting somewhere in the Death Zone above eight thousand
meters. "Assault" on a mountain was a good word then, since it took an army to mount the assault.
Gary,
Paul, the bug, and I are climbing alpine style. This means that we carry everything we need—starting heavy and
getting lighter and lighter as we climb—essentially making a direct bid on the
summit, hoping to climb it in a week
or less. No series of permanent camps, just temporary slabs cut out of the snow
and ice for our smart tents—at least up
until whatever camp we designate as our summit-attempt jumping-off point. Then we'll leave the tents and most of
the gear there and go for it, hoping
and praying to whatever gods we have—and who knows what
gods Kanakaredes prays to, if any—praying that the weather won't turn bad while we're up there in the
Death Zone, that we won't get lost coming down to our high camp in the dark, that nothing
serious happens to any
us of during that final attempt since we really can't help each other at that
altitude—essentially just praying our asses off that we don't fuck up.
But that is if we can keep moving steadily up this
hill. Today wasn't so steady.
We
started early, breaking down Camp One in a few minutes, loading efficiently, and climbing well—me in the lead,
then Paul, then the bug, then Gary.
There's a bitch of a steep, razor-edge traverse starting at about the 23,300-foot level—the hardest pitch on
the northeast ridge part of our route—and we wanted to settle into a
secure camp at the beginning of that scary
traverse by nightfall tonight. No such luck.
I'm
sure I have some of Kanakaredes's comments recorded from today, but they're mostly monosyllables and they
don't reveal any great bug secrets.
They're more along the lines of—"Kana . . . Kanaka . . . hey K, did you pack the extra stove?"
"Yes." "Want to take a lunch break?" "That
would be fine."—and Gary's "Shit, it's starting to snow." Come to think of it, I don't believe the
mantispid initiated any conversation. All the clicks and sighs on the
palmlog chip are K replying to our questions.
All the cursing was ours.
It started to snow heavily about noon.
Until then things had been going well. I was still in the
lead—burning
calories at a ferocious rate as I broke trail and kicked steps in the steep
slope for the others to follow. We were climbing independently, not roped. If one of us slipped or
caught his crampons on a rock rather than
ice, it was up to that person to stop his slide by self-arrest with his ice axe. Otherwise one had just bought a
really great amusement-park ride of
a screaming slide on ice for a thousand feet or so and then a launch out over the edge to open space, dropping
three or four thousand feet to the
glacier below.
The best idea is not to think about that, just keep
points attached to the snow slope at all times and make damned sure that no
matter how tired you were,
that you paid attention to where you kicked your crampons into the ice. I have no idea if Kanakaredes had a fear of
heights—I made a fatigued mental note to ask him—but his climbing style showed
caution and care. His "crampons" were customized—a series of sharp, plastic-looking spikes lashed to those weird
arrow-shaped feet of his—but he took
care in their placement and used his ice axe well. He was climbing two-legged
this day, his rear legs folded into his elevated prothorax so that you wouldn't know they were there unless you
knew where to look.
By 10:30 or 11:00 A.M., we'd gained enough altitude that
we could clearly
see Staircase Peak—its eastern ridge looks like a stairway for some Hindu giant—on
the northeast side of K2. The mountain is also called Skyang Kangri and it was
beautiful, dazzling in the sunlight against the still-blue eastern sky. Far below, we could see the
Godwin-Austen Glacier crawling along the
base of Skyang Kangri to the 19,000-foot
pass of Windy Gap. We could easily see over Windy Pass now, scores of
miles to the browning hills of what used to be China and now was the mythical country of Sinkiang, fought over
even as we climbed by troops from the HK and various Chinese warlords.
More pertinent to our cause right now was the view up
and westward toward the beautiful but almost laughable bulk of K2, with its wild
knife-edge
ridge that we hoped to reach by nightfall. At this rate, I thought just before looking up at it again, it
shouldn't be any problem. . . .
That was precisely the moment when Gary called up,
"Shit! It's starting to
snow!"
The clouds had rolled in from the south and west when we
weren't watching,
and within ten minutes we were enveloped by them. The wind came up. Snow blew everywhere. We had
to cluster up on the increasingly steep
slope just to keep track of one another. Naturally, at precisely this point in the day's climb, our
steep but relatively easy snow slope
turned into a forbidding wall of ice with a band of brittle rock visible above for the few minutes before the clouds
shut off all our view for the rest of the day.
"Fuck
me," said Paul as we gathered at the foot of the ice slope.
Kanakaredes's
bulky, beaked head turned slowly in Paul's direction, his black eyes attentive, as if he was curious as to whether such a
biological improbability was possible. K asked no questions and Paul
volunteered no answers.
Paul, the best ice climber among us, took the lead for
the next half hour or so,
planting his axe into the near-vertical ice wall, then kicking hard with the two spike points on the front of his
boot, then pulling himself up with the strength of his right arm,
kicking one foot in again, pulling the axe out, slamming it in again.
This
is basic ice-climbing technique, not difficult, but exhausting at almost twenty thousand feet—twice the altitude
where CMGs and commercial airlines are required to go to pressurized O2—and it took time, especially
since we'd roped up now and were belaying Paul as he kick-climbed.
Paul was about seventy feet above us now and was moving
cautiously out onto the rock
band. Suddenly a slew of small rocks came loose and hurtled down toward us.
There was no place for us to go. Each of us had hacked
out a tiny platform in the ice on which we could stand, so all we could do was
press ourselves
against the ice wall, cover up, and wait. The rocks missed me. Gary had a fist-size
rock bounce off his pack and go hurtling out into space. Kanakaredes
was hit twice by serious-size rocks—once in his upper left leg, arm, whatever it is, and
again on his bumpy dorsal ridge. I heard both rocks strike; they made a sound
like stone hitting slate.
"Fuck
me," K said clearly as more rocks bounced around him.
When
the fusillade was over, after Paul had finished shouting down apologies and Gary had finished hurling up
insults, I kick-stepped the ten or so paces to where K still huddled against
the ice wall, his right mantis forearm raised, the ice axe and his toe
points still dug in tight.
"You hurt?" I said. I was worried that we'd
have to use the red button to evacuate the bug and that our climb would be ruined.
Kanakaredes
slowly shook his head—not so much to say no, but to check things out. It was almost painful to watch—his bulky head and smiling beak rotating almost 270 degrees in each
direction. His free forearm unlimbered, bent impossibly, and those long,
unjointed fingers carefully patted and probed his dorsal ridge. Click. Sigh. Click—"I'm all
right."
"Paul will be more careful on the rest of the rock
band."
"That would be good."
Paul was more careful, but the rock was rotten,
and there were a few more
landslides, but no more direct hits. Ten minutes and sixty or seventy feet
later, he had reached the crest of the ridge, found a good belay stance, and called us up. Gary, who was still
pissed—he liked few things less than
being pelted by rocks set loose by someone else—started up next. I had
Kanakaredes follow thirty feet behind Gary. The bug's ice technique was
by the book—not flashy but serviceable. I came up last, trying to stay close enough that I could see and dodge any loosened boulders
when we all reached the rock band.
By the time we were all on the northeast ridge and
climbing it, the visibility was close to zero, the temperature had dropped about fifty
degrees,
the snow was thick and mushy and treacherous, and we could hear but not see
avalanches roaring down both the east face of K2 and this very slope
somewhere both ahead of us and behind us in the fog. We stayed roped up.
"Welcome to K2," Gary shouted back from where
he had taken the lead. His parka and hood and goggles and bare chin were a scary, icicled
mass
mostly obscured by horizontally blowing snow.
"Thank you," click-hissed K in what I heard as
a more formal tone. "It is a great pleasure to be here."
Camp
Three—under a serac on the crest of the ridge at the
beginning
of the knife-edge traverse, 23,200 feet
Stuck here three full days and nights, fourth night
approaching. Hunkered here useless in our tents, eating nutrient bars and cooking soup that can't be
replaced, using up the heating charge in the stove to melt snow into water, each of us getting
weaker and crankier due to the altitude and lack of exercise. The wind has been
howling and the storm raging for three full
days—four days if you count our climb from Camp Two. Yesterday Gary and
Paul—with Paul in the lead on the incredibly steep ridge—tried to force
the way across the steep climbing traverse in the storm, planning to lay down
fixed rope even if we had to make the summit
bid with only whatever string remained in our pockets. They failed on the traverse attempt, turning back after
three hours in the howling weather
and returning ice-crusted and near-frostbitten. It took more than four
hours for Paul to quit shaking, even with the thermskins and regulated smart clothing raising his body
temperature. If we don't get across
this traverse soon—storm or no storm—we won't have to worry about what gear and supplies will be left
for the summit bid. There won't be
any summit bid.
I'm not even sure now how we managed the climb two days
ago from Camp
Two to this narrow patch of chopped out ridge crest. Our bug was obviously at the
edge of his skill envelope, even with his extra legs and greater strength,
and we decided to rope together for the last few hours of climbing, just in case K
peeled loose. It wouldn't do much good to push the red panic button on the palmlog
just to tell the arriving UN CMG guys that Kanakaredes had taken a header five thousand
feet straight
down to the Godwin-Austen Glacier.
"Mr. Alien Speaker, sir, we sort of lost your kid.
But maybe you can scrape him up off the glacier ice and clone him or something." No,
we didn't want that.
As it was, we ended up working after dark, headlamps
glowing, ropes 'binered to our harnesses and attached to the slope via ice screws just
to keep us from being blown into black space, using our ice axes to hack a platform big enough
for the tent—there was only room for a merged cluster of the smart tents, wedged ten
feet from a vertical drop, forty feet from an avalanche path and tucked
directly beneath an overhanging serac the size of a three-story building—a
serac that could give way any time and take us and the tent with it. Not the best spot
to spend ten minutes in, much
less three days and nights during a high-altitude hurricane. But we had no choice; everything else here was knife-ridge or avalanche slope.
As much as I would have preferred it otherwise, we
finally had time for some conversation. Our tents were joined in the form of a squished cross, with a tiny
central area, not much more than two feet or so across, for cooking and
conversation and just enough room for each of us to pull back into our small nacelles when we
curled up to sleep. The platform we'd hacked
out of the slope under the overhanging serac wasn't big enough or flat enough to serve all of us, and
I ended up in one of the downhill
segments, my head higher than my feet. The angle was flat enough to allow me to
doze off but still steep enough to send me frequently lurching up from sleep,
fingers clawing for my ice axe to stop my slide. But my ice axe was
outside with the others, sunk in the deepening
snow and rock-hard ice, with about a hundred feet of spidersilk climbing
rope lashed around it and over the tent and back again. I think we also used twelve ice screws to secure us to
the tiny ice shelf.
Not
that any of this will do us a damned bit of good if the serac decides to go or the slope shifts or the winds just
make up their minds to blow the whole mass of rope, ice axes, screws, tent,
humans, and bug right off the mountain.
We've
slept a lot, of course. Paul had brought a softbook loaded with a dozen or so novels and a bunch of magazines, so
we handed that around
occasionally—even K took his turn reading—and for the first day we didn't talk much because of the effort it
took to speak up over the wind howl
and the noise of snow and hail pelting the tent. But eventually we grew bored even of sleeping and tried
some conversation. That first day it
was mostly climbing and technical talk—reviewing the route, listing points for and against the direct
attempt once we got past this traverse and up over the snow dome at the
base of the summit pyramid—Gary arguing for
the Direct Finish no matter what, Paul urging
caution and a possible traverse to the more frequently climbed Abruzzi Ridge,
Kanakaredes and me listening. But by the second and third days, we were
asking the bug personal questions.
"So
you guys came from Aldebaran," said Paul on the second afternoon of the storm. "How long did it take
you?"
"Five hundred years," said our bug. To fit in
his section of the tent, he'd had to fold every appendage he had at least
twice. I couldn't help but think it was uncomfortable for him.
Gary
whistled. He'd never paid much attention to all the media coverage of the mantispids.
"Are you that old, K? Five hundred years?"
Kanakaredes let out a soft whistle that I was beginning
to suspect was some equivalent to a laugh. "I am only twenty-three of your years
old, Gary,"
he said. "I was born on the ship, as were my parents and their parents and so on far back. Our life span
is roughly equivalent to yours. It was a ...
generation-ship, I believe is your term for it." He paused as the howling wind rose to ridiculous volume and
velocity. When it died a bit he went
on, "I knew no other home than the ship until we reached Earth."
Paul and I exchanged glances. It was time for me to
interrogate our captive bug for country, family, and Secretary Bright Moon. "So why did you .. . the
Listeners . . . travel all the way to Earth?" I asked. The bugs had answered this publicly on more
than one occasion, but the answer was always
the same and never made much sense.
"Because
you were there," said the bug. It was the same old answer. It was flattering, I guess, since we humans have
always considered ourselves the center of the universe, but it still
made little sense.
"But
why spend centuries traveling to meet us?" asked Paul.
"To
help you learn to listen," said K.
"Listen
to what?" I said. "You? The mantispids? We're interested in listening. Interested in learning. We'll listen to
you."
Kanakaredes slowly shook his heavy head. I realized,
viewing the mantispid from
this close, that his head was more saurian—dinosaur/ birdlike—than buggy. "Not listen to us," click, hiss. "To
the song of your own world."
"To the song of our world?" asked Gary almost
brusquely. "You mean, just appreciate life more? Slow down and smell the
roses? Stuff like that?" Gary's second wife had been into transcendental
meditation. I think it was
the reason he divorced her.
"No," said K. "I mean listen to the sound
of your world. You have fed your seas. You have consecrated your world. But you
do not listen."
It was my turn to muddle things even further. "Fed
our seas and consecrated our world," I said. The entire tent thrummed as a gust hit
it and
then subsided. "How did we do that?"
"By dying, Jake," said the bug. It was the first
time he'd used my name.
"By becoming part of the seas, of the world."
"Does dying have something to do with hearing the
song?" asked Paul.
Kanakaredes's eyes were perfectly round and absolutely
black, but they did not seem threatening as he looked at us in the glow of one of the flashlights. "You cannot hear
the song when you are dead," he whistle-clicked. "But you cannot have
the song unless your species has recycled
its atoms and molecules through your world for millions of years." "Can you hear the song
here?" I asked. "On Earth, I mean." "No," said
the bug.
I decided to try a more promising tack. "You gave us
CMG technology," I said,
"and that's certainly brought wonderful changes." Bullshit, I
thought. I'd liked things better before cars could fly. At least the traffic
jams along the Front Range where I lived in Colorado had been two dimensional then. "But we're sort of ... well
. . . curious about when the
Listeners are going to share other secrets with us."
"We
have no secrets," said Kanakaredes. "Secrets was not even a concept to us before we arrived here on
Earth."
"Not
secrets then," I said hurriedly, "but more new technologies, inventions, discoveries ..."
"What
kind of discoveries?" said K.
I
took a breath. "A cure to cancer would be good," I said.
Kanakaredes made a clicking sound. "Yes, that would
be good," he breathed at last. "But this is a disease of your
species. Why have you not cured it?"
"We've tried," said Gary. "It's a tough
nut to crack."
"Yes," said Kanakaredes, "it is a tough
nut to crack."
I decided not to be subtle. "Our species need to
learn from one another," I said, my voice perhaps a shade louder than necessary to be
heard over the storm. "But your people are so reticent. When are we really going to start
talking to each other?"
"When
your species learns to listen," said K.
"Is
that why you came on this climb with us?" asked Paul.
"I hope that is not the only result," said the
bug, "but it is, along with the need to understand, the reason I
came."
I looked at Gary. Lying on his stomach, his head only
inches from the low tent
roof, he shrugged slightly.
"You have mountains on your home world? "
asked Paul.
"I was taught that we did not."
"So your homeworld was sort of like the south pole
where you guys have your
freehold?"
"Not that cold," said Kanakaredes, "and never
that dark in the winter. But
the atmospheric pressure is similar."
"So you're acclimated to about—what?—seven or eight
thousand feet altitude?"
"Yes," said the mantispid.
"And
the cold doesn't bother you?" asked Gary.
"It is uncomfortable at times," said the bug.
"But our species has evolved a subcutaneous layer which serves much as your
thermskins in regulating temperature."
It was my turn to ask a question. "If your world
didn't have mountains,"
I said, "why do you want to climb K2 with us?"
"Why do you wish to climb it?" asked
Kanakaredes, his head swiveling smoothly to look at each of us.
There was silence for a minute. Well, not really silence
since the wind
and pelting snow made it sound as if we were camped behind a jet exhaust, but at
least none of us humans spoke.
Kanakaredes
folded and unfolded his six legs. It was disturbing to watch. "I believe that I will try to sleep now," he said, and
closed the flap that separated his niche from ours.
The three of us put our heads together and whispered. "He
sounds like
a goddamned missionary," hissed Gary. "All this 'listen to the song' doubletalk."
"Just
our luck," said Paul. "Our first contact with an extraterrestrial civilization, and they're freaking Jehovah's
Witnesses."
"He
hasn't handed us any tracts yet," I said.
"Just wait," whispered Gary. "The four of
us are going to stagger onto
the summit of this hill someday if this fucking storm ever lets up, exhausted, gasping for air that isn't there,
frostbitten to shit and back, and
this bug's going to haul out copies of the Mantispid Watchtower."
"Shhh,"
said Paul. "K'll hear us."
Just then the wind hit the tent so hard that we all tried
digging our fingernails through the hyper-polymer floor to keep the tent from
sliding off its precarious perch and down the mountain. If worst came to worst,
we'd shout "Open!" at the top of our lungs, the smart tent fabric would fold away, and
we'd roll out onto the slope in our thermskins and grab for our ice axes to
self-arrest the slide. That was the theory. In fact, if the platform
shifted or the spidersilk snapped, we'd almost certainly be airborne before we knew what hit us.
When
we could hear again over the wind roar, Gary shouted, "If we unpeel from this platform, I'm going to cuss a
fucking blue streak all the way down to impact on the glacier."
"Maybe that's the song that K's been talking
about," said Paul, and sealed his flap.
Last note to the day: Mantispids snore.
On the afternoon of day three, Kanakaredes suddenly said,
"My creche
brother is also listening to a storm near your south pole at this very moment. But his
surroundings are . . . more comfortable and secure than our tent."
I
looked at the other two, and we all showed raised eyebrows.
"I didn't know you brought a phone with you on this
climb, K," I said.
"I did not."
"Radio? "said Paul.
"No."
"Subcutaneous intergalactic Star Trek communicator?"
said Gary. His sarcasm, much
as his habit of chewing the nutrient bars too slowly, was beginning to get on my nerves after three days in this tent. I thought
that perhaps the next time he was sarcastic or chewed slowly, I might just kill
him.
K
whistled ever so slightly. "No," he said. "I understood your
climbers' tradition of bringing no
communication devices on this expedition."
"Then how do you know that your . . . what was it,
creche brother?
... is in a storm down
there?" asked Paul.
"Because he is my creche brother," said K.
"We were born in the same
hour. We are, essentially, the same genetic material."
"Twins," I said.
"So you have telepathy?" said Paul.
Kanakaredes
shook his head, his proboscis almost brushing the napping tent fabric. "Our scientists think that there is no such thing
as telepathy. For any species."
"Then how—?" I began.
"My creche brother and I often resonate on the same
frequencies to the song of the world and universe," said K in one of the
longest sentences we'd heard from him. "Much as your identical twins do. We often share the same dreams." Bugs dream. I made a mental note
to record this factoid later.
"And does your creche brother know what you're
feeling right now?" said Paul.
"I believe so."
"And
what's that?" asked Gary, chewing far too slowly on an n-bar.
"Right now," said Kanakaredes, "it is
fear."
The
fourth day dawned perfectly clear, perfectly calm.
We were packed and climbing across the traverse before
the first rays of sunlight
struck the ridgeline. It was cold as a witch's tit.
I mentioned that this part of the route was perhaps the
most technically challenging
of the climb—at least until we reached the actual summit pyramid—but it was also the most beautiful and exhilarating. You would have to see photos to appreciate the
almost absurd steepness of this
section of the ridge and even then it wouldn't allow you to feel the
exposure. The northeast ridge just kept climbing in a series of swooping,
knife-edged snow cornices, each side dropping away almost vertically.
As soon as we had moved onto the ridge, we looked back at
the gigantic serac hanging above the trampled area of our Camp III perched on the edge of the
ridge—the snow serac larger and more deformed and obviously unstable than ever after the
heavy snows and howling winds of the last four days of storm—and we didn't have
to say a word to one another to acknowledge
how lucky we had been. Even Kanakaredes seemed grateful to get out of
there.
Two hundred feet into the traverse and we went up and over
the blade
of the knife. The snowy ridgeline was so narrow here that we could—and did—straddle it for a minute as
if swinging our legs over a very, very steep
roofline.
Some
roof. One side dropped down thousands of feet into what used to be China. Our left legs—three of
Kanakaredes's—hung over what used to
be Pakistan. Right around this point, climbers in the twentieth century used to joke about needing passports but
seeing no border guards. In this
CMG-era, a Sianking HK gunship or Indian hop-fighter could float up here anytime, hover fifty yards
out, and blow us right off the ridge.
None of us was worried about this. Kanakaredes's presence was insurance against that.
This was the hardest climbing yet, and our bug friend was
working hard
to keep up. Gary and Paul and I had discussed this the night before, whispering
again while K was asleep, and we decided that this section was too steep
for all of us to be roped together. We'd travel in two pairs. Paul was the
obvious man to rope with K, although if either of them came off on this
traverse, odds were overwhelming that the other would go all the way to the bottom with
him. The same was true of Gary and me, climbing ahead of them. Still, it gave a
very slight measure of insurance.
The
sunlight moved down the slope, warming us, as we moved from one side of the
knife-edge to the other, following the best line, trying to stay off the sections so steep that snow would
not stick—avoiding it not just because of the pitch there, but because
the rock was almost always loose and
rotten—and hoping to get as far as we could before the warming sun
loosened the snow enough to make our crampons less effective.
I loved the litany of the tools we were using: deadmen,
pitons, pickets, ice screws, carabiners, jumar ascenders. I loved the precision
of our movements, even with
the labored breathing and dull minds that were a component of any exertion at almost eight thousand meters. Gary would kick-step his way out onto the wall of ice
and snow and occasional rock, one
cramponed boot at a time, secure on three points before dislodging
his ice axe and slamming it in a few feet further on. I stood on a tiny
platform I'd hacked out of the snow, belaying Gary until he'd moved out to the end of our
two-hundred-foot section of line. Then he'd anchor his end of the line with a deadman, piton,
picket, or ice screw, go
on belay himself, and I would move off—kicking the crampon points into the snow-wall rising
almost vertically to blue sky just fifty or sixty feet above me.
A
hundred yards or so behind us, Paul and Kanakaredes were doing the same—Paul in the lead and K on belay, then K
climbing and Paul belaying and resting until the bug caught up.
We
might as well have been on different planets. There was no conversation. We
used every ounce of breath to take our next gasping step, to concentrate on
precise placement of our feet and ice axes.
A twentieth-century climbing team might have taken days to
make this traverse, establishing fixed lines, retreating to their tents at Camp
Three to
eat and sleep, allowing other teams to break trail beyond the fixed ropes the next day. We did not have
that luxury. We had to make this traverse in
one try and keep moving up the ridge while the perfect weather lasted or we were screwed.
I loved it.
About five hours into the traverse, I realized that
butterflies were fluttering all around me. I looked up toward Gary on belay two hundred feet ahead and above
me. He was also watching butterflies—small motes of color dancing and weaving 23,000
feet above sea level. What the hell would Kanakaredes make of this? Would he
think this was an everyday occurrence at this altitude? Well, perhaps it was.
We humans weren't up here enough to know. I shook my head and continued
shuffling my boots and
slamming my ice axe up the impossible ridge.
The rays of the sun were horizontal in late afternoon when
all four of us came off the
knife-edge at the upper end of the traverse. The ridge was still
heart-stoppingly steep there, but it had widened out so that we could stand on it as we looked back at our
footprints on the snowy blade of the knife-edge. Even after all these
years of climbing, I still found it hard to believe that we had been able to
make those tracks.
"Hey!" shouted Gary. "I'm a fucking
giant!" He was flapping his arms and staring toward Sinkiang and the
Godwin-Austen Glacier miles below us. Altitude's got him, I thought. We'll
have to sedate him, tie him in his sleeping bag, and drag him down the way we came like so much
laundry.
"Come on!" Gary shouted to me in the high, cold
air. "Be a giant, Jake." He continued flapping his arms. I turned to
look behind me and Paul and Kanakaredes were also hopping up and down, carefully so as not to
fall off the foot-wide ridgeline, shouting and flapping their arms. It was
quite a sight to see K moving his mantisy forearms six ways at once, joints swiveling, boneless
fingers waving like big grubs. They've all lost it, I thought. Oxygen deprivation lunacy. Then I looked down and east.
Our shadows leaped out miles across the glacier and the
neighboring mountains. I raised my arms. Lowered them. My shadow atop the dark line
of ridge shadow raised and lowered shadow-arms that must have been ten miles tall.
We kept this up—jumping shouting, waving—until the sun
set behind
Broad Peak to the west and our giant selves disappeared forever.
Camp
Six—narrow bench on snow dome below
summit pyramid, 26,200 feet
No conversation or talk of listening to songs now. No
jumping or shouting or waving. Not enough oxygen here to breathe or think, much less fuck around.
Almost no conversation the last three days or nights as
we climbed the last of the broadening northeast ridge to where it ended at the
huge snow
dome, then climbed the snow dome itself. The weather stayed calm and
clear—incredible for this late in the season. The snow was deep because of the
storm that had pinned us down at Camp Three, but we took turns breaking trail—an
exhausting job at 10,000 feet, literally mind-numbing above 25,000 feet.
At night, we didn't even bother merging our tents—just
using our own
segments like bivvy bags. We heated only one warm meal a day—super-nutrient soup
on the single stove (we'd left the other behind just beyond the knife-edge
traverse, along with everything else we didn't think we'd need in the last three or
four days of climbing)—and chewed on cold n-bars at night before drifting off into
a half-doze for a few cold, restless hours before stirring at three or four A.M. to
begin climbing again by lamplight.
All of us humans had miserable headaches and high-altitude
stupidity.
Paul was in the worst shape—perhaps because of the frostbite scare way down
during his first attempt at the traverse—and he was coughing heavily and
moving sluggishly. Even K had slowed down, climbing mostly two-legged on this high
stretch, and sometimes taking a minute or more before planting his feet.
Most Himalayan mountains have ridges that go all the way
to the summit.
Not K2. Not this northeast ridge. It ended at a bulging snow dome some two
thousand feet below the summit.
We climbed the snow dome—slowly, stupidly, sluggishly,
separately. No ropes or belays here. If anyone fell to his death, it was going to be
a
solitary fall. We did not care. At and above the legendary eight-thousand-meter line,
you move into yourself and then—often—lose even yourself.
We had not brought oxygen, not even the light osmosis
booster-mask perfected in the
last decade. We had one of those masks—in case any of us became critically ill from pulmonary edema or worse—but we'd left the mask cached with the stove, most of
the rope, and other extra supplies
above Camp Four. It had seemed like a good idea at the time.
Now all I could think about was breathing. Every
move—every step—took more breath than I had, more oxygen than my system owned. Paul seemed in
even worse shape, although somehow he kept up. Gary was moving steadily, but sometimes
he betrayed his headaches and
confusion by movement or pause. He had vomited twice this morning before we moved out from Camp Six. At night,
we startled awake after only a minute
or two of half-sleep—gasping for air, clawing at our own chests, feeling as if something heavy were
lying on us and someone were actively trying to suffocate us.
Something
was trying to kill us here. Everything was. We were high in the Death Zone,
and K2 did not care one way or the other if we lived or died.
The good weather had held, but high wind and storms were
overdue. It
was the end of August. Any day or night now we could be pinned down up here for
weeks of unrelenting storms—unable to climb, unable to retreat. We could
starve to death up here. I thought of the red panic button on the palmlog.
We had told Kanakaredes about the panic button while we
heated soup
at Camp Five. The mantispid had asked to see the extra palmlog with the emergency
beacon. Then he had thrown the palmlog out the tent entrance, into the night,
over the edge.
Gary
had looked at our bug for a long minute and then grinned, extending his hand. K's foreleg had unfolded, the
mantis part swiveling, and those three fingers had encircled Gary's hand and
shaken it.
I had thought this was rather cool and heroic at the
time. Now I just wished we
had the goddamned panic button back.
We stirred, got dressed, and started heating water for
our last meal shortly after 1:30 A.M. None of us could sleep anyway, and every extra hour we spent up here
in the Death Zone meant more chance to die, more chance to fail. But we were moving so
slowly that tugging our boots on seemed to take hours, adjusting our crampons took
forever.
We moved away from the tents sometime after three A.M. We
left the tents
behind at Camp Six. If we survived the summit attempt, we'd be back.
It was unbelievably cold. Even the thermskins and smart
outer parkas
failed to make up the difference. If there had been a wind, we could not have continued.
We were now on what we called Direct Finish—the top or
bust—although our original fallback plan had been to traverse across the face of K2 to the oldest route up the northwest
Abruzzi Ridge if Direct Finish proved
unfeasible. I think that all three of us had suspected we'd end up on the Abruzzi—most of our predecessors climbing
the northeast ridge had ended up
doing so, even the legendary Reinhold Messner, perhaps the greatest climber of the twentieth century, had been forced to change his route to the easier Abruzzi Ridge
rather than suffer failure on the
Direct Finish.
Well, by early afternoon of what was supposed to have been
our summit
day, Direct Finish now seems impossible and so does the traverse to the
Abruzzi. The snow on the face of K2 is so deep that there is no hope of traversing through it to the
Abruzzi Ridge. Avalanches hurtle down the
face several times an hour. And above us—even deeper snow. We're fucked.
The day had started well. Above the almost vertical
snowdome on which we'd hacked
out a wide enough bench to lodge Camp Six, rose a huge snowfield that snaked up
and up toward the black, star-filled sky until
it became a wall. We climbed slowly, agonizingly, up the snowfield, leaving separate tracks, thinking separate
thoughts. It was getting light by the time we reached the end of the snow ramp.
Where the snowfield ended a vertical ice cliff began and
rose at least 150 feet straight up. Literally fucking vertical. The four of us stood there in the morning light, three of us
rubbing our goggles, looking stupidly at the
cliff. We'd known it was there. We'd had no idea what a bitch it was
going to be.
"I'll do the lead," gasped Paul. He could
barely walk.
He
free-climbed the fucker in less than an hour, slamming in pitons and screws and tying on the last of our rope. When
the three of us climbed slowly,
stupidly up to join him, me bringing up the rear just behind K, Paul was only
semiconscious.
Above
the ice cliff rose a steep rock band. It was so steep that snow couldn't cling there. The rock looked
rotten—treacherous—the kind of fragile crap that any sane climber would
traverse half a day to avoid.
There would be no traverse today. Any attempt to shift
laterally on the face here would almost certainly trigger an avalanche
in the soft slabs of snow
overlaying old ice.
"I'll
lead," said Gary, still looking up at the rock band. He was holding his head with both hands. I knew that Gary
always suffered the worst of the Death Zone headaches that afflicted all three
of us. For four or five days and nights now, I knew, Gary's every word
and breath had been punctuated by slivers of steel pain behind the eyes.
I
nodded and helped Paul to his feet. Gary began to climb the lower strata of
crumbling rock.
We
reach the end of the rock by midafternoon. The wind is rising. A spume of spindrift blows off the near-vertical
snow and ice above us. We cannot see
the summit. Above a narrow coloir that rises like a chimney to frigid
hell, the summit-pyramid snowfield begins. We're somewhere above 27,000 feet.
K2 is 28,250 feet high.
That last twelve hundred feet might as well be measured in
light-years.
"I'll break trail up the coloir," I hear myself
say. The others don't even nod, merely wait for me to begin. Kanakaredes is
leaning on his ice axe in a
posture I've not seen before.
My
first step up the coloir sends me into snow above my knees. This is impossible. I would weep now, except that the
tears would freeze to the inside of my goggles and blind me. It is
impossible to take another step up this
steep fucking gully. I can't even breathe. My head pounds so terribly
that my vision dances and blurs and no amount of wiping my goggles will clear it.
I lift my ice axe, slam it three feet higher, and lift my
right leg. Again. Again.
Summit
pyramid snowfield above the coloir, somewhere around 27,800
feet
Late afternoon. It will be almost dark when we reach the
summit. If we reach
the summit.
Everything depends upon the snow that rises above us
toward the impossibly dark
blue sky. If the snow is firm—nowhere as mushy and deep as the thigh-high soup I broke trail through all the way up the coloir—then we have a chance, although we'll be
descending in the dark.
But if it's deep snow . . .
"I'll lead," said Gary, shifting his small
summit-pack on his back and slogging slowly up to replace me in the lead. There is a
rock band here at the top of the narrow coloir, and he will be stepping off it
either into or onto the snow. If the surface is firm, we'll all move
onto it, using our crampons
to kick-step our way up the last couple of hours of climb to the summit—although we still cannot
see the summit from here. Please, God, let it be firm.
I try to look around me. Literally beneath my feet is a
drop to the impossibly distant knife-edge, far below that the ridge where we put Camp Two, miles and
miles lower the curving, rippled river of Godwin-Austen and a dim memory of
base camp and of living things—lichen, crows, a clump of grass where the glacier was melting. On either
side stretches the Karakoram, white peaks
thrusting up like fangs, distant summits
merging into the Himalayan peaks, and one lone peak—I'm too stupid to
even guess which one—standing high and solitary against the sky. The red hills of China burn in the thick haze of breathable atmosphere a hundred miles to the north.
"OK,"
says Gary, stepping off the rock onto the snowfield.
He
plunges in soft snow up to his waist.
Somehow Gary finds enough breath to hurl curses at the
snow, at any
and all gods who would put such deep snow here. He lunges another step up and forward.
The snow is even deeper. Gary founders almost up to his
armpits. He
slashes at the snowfield with his ice axe, batters it with his overmittens. The snowfield and K2 ignore him.
I
go to both knees on the pitched rock band and lean on my ice axe, not caring if my sobs can be heard by the others
or if my tears will freeze my
eyelids open. The expedition is over.
Kanakaredes
slowly pulls his segmented body up the last ten feet of the coloir, past Paul where Paul is retching against a boulder, past me where I am kneeling, onto the last of the solid
surface before Gary's sliding snowpit.
"I will lead for a while," says Kanakaredes.
He sets his ice axe into his harness. His prothorax shifts lower. His hind legs come
down and out. His
arms—forelegs—rotate down and forward.
Kanakaredes thrusts himself into the steep snowfield like
an Olympic swimmer diving off
the starting block. He passes Gary where Gary lies armpit deep in the soft snow.
The bug—our bug—flails and batters the snow with
his forearms, parts it with his cupped fingers, smashes it down with his armored
upper body segment, swims through the snow with all six legs paddling.
He can't possibly keep this up. It's impossible. Nothing
living has that much energy and will. It is seven or eight hundred near-vertical
feet to the summit.
K swims-kicks-fights his way fifteen feet up the slope.
Twenty-five. Thirty.
Getting to my feet, feeling my temples pounding in agony,
sensing
invisible climbers around me, ghosts hovering in the Death Zone fog of pain and confusion, I step past
Gary and start postholing upward, following
K's lead, struggling and swimming up and through the now-broken barrier
of snow.
Summit
of K2, 28,250 feet
We step onto the summit together, arm in arm. All four of
us. The final
summit ridge is just wide enough to allow this.
Many eight-thousand-meter-peak summits have overhanging
cornices. After all this
effort, the climber sometimes takes his or her final step to triumph and falls for a mile or so. We don't know if K2 is
corniced. Like many of these other climbers, we're too exhausted to care. Kanakaredes can no longer stand or walk after
breaking trail through the snowfield
for more than six hundred feet. Gary and I carry him the last hundred feet or so, our arms under his
mantis arms. I am shocked to discover
that he weighs almost nothing. All that energy, all that spirit, and K probably
weighs no more than a hundred pounds. The summit is not corniced. We do not
fall.
The weather has held, although the sun is setting. Its
last rays warm us through our parkas and thermskins. The sky is a blue deeper
than cerulean, much deeper than sapphire, incomparably deeper than aquamarine.
Perhaps this shade of blue has no word to describe it.
We can see to the curve of the earth and beyond. Two
peaks are visible above that curving horizon, their summit icefields glowing
orange in the
sunset, a great distance to the northeast, probably somewhere in Chinese
Turkistan. To the south lies the entire tumble of overlapping peaks and winding
glaciers that is the Karakoram. I make out the perfect peak that is Nanga
Parbat—Gary, Paul, and I climbed that six years ago—and closer, the Gasherbrum.
At our feet, literally at our feet, Broad Peak. Who would have thought that its
summit looked so wide and flat from above?
The
four of us are all sprawled on the narrow summit, two feet from the sheer drop-off on the north. My arms are still
around Kanakaredes, ostensibly propping him up but actually propping both of us
up.
The mantispid clicks, hisses, and squeaks. He shakes his
beak and tries again. "I
am . . . sorry," he gasps, the air audibly hissing in and out of his beak nostrils. "I ask . . .
traditionally, what do we do now? Is there a ceremony for this moment? A ritual required?"
I look at Paul, who seems to be recovering from his
earlier inertia. We both look
at Gary.
"Try not to fuck up and die," says Gary between
breaths. "More climbers die during the descent than on the way up."
Kanakaredes seems to be considering this. After a minute
he says, "Yes
but here on the summit, there must be some ritual. ..."
"Hero photos," gasps Paul.
"Gotta . . . have . . . hero photos."
Our alien nods. "Did . . . anyone . . . bring an
imaging device? A camera? I
did not."
Gary,
Paul, and I look at each other, pat our parka pockets, and then start laughing.
At this altitude, our laughter sounds like three sick seals coughing.
"Well,
no hero photos," says Gary. "Then we have to haul the flags out. Always bring a flag to the summit, that's our
human motto." This extended speech makes Gary so light-headed that
he has to put his head between his raised
knees for a minute.
"I have no flag," says Kanakaredes. "The
Listeners have never had a flag."
The sun is setting in earnest now, the last rays shining between a line of
peaks to the west, but the reddish-orange light glows brightly on our stupid, smiling faces and mittens and goggles
and ice-crusted parkas.
"We didn't bring a flag either," I say.
"This is good," says K. "So there is
nothing else we need to do?"
"Just get down alive," says Paul.
We rise together, weaving a bit, propping one another up,
retrieve our
ice axes from where we had thrust them into the glowing summit snow, and begin
retracing our steps down the long snowfield into shadow.
Godwin-Austin Glacier,
about 17,300 feet
It took us only four and a half days to get down, and
that included a day of rest at our old Camp Three on the low side of the knife-edge traverse.
The weather held the whole time. We did not get back to
our high camp—Camp
Six below the ice wall—until after three A.M. after our successful summit
day, but the lack of wind had kept our tracks clear even in lamplight, and no one slipped or
fell or suffered frostbite.
We moved quickly after that, leaving just after dawn the
next day to
get to Camp Four on the upper end of the knife-edge before night-tall . .. and before
the gods of K2 changed their minds and blew up a storm to trap us in the Death Zone.
The only incident on the lower slopes of the mountain
happened—oddly enough—on a
relatively easy stretch of snow slope below Camp Two. The four of us were picking our way down the slope, unroped, lost in our own thoughts and in the not-unpleasant haze
of exhaustion so common near the end of a climb, when K just came
loose—perhaps he tripped over one of his own
hindlegs, although he denied that later—and ended up on his stomach—or
at least the bottom of his upper shell, all
six legs spraddled, ice axe flying free, starting a slide that would have been harmless enough for the first hundred yards
or so if it had not been for the drop off that fell away to the glacier still a
thousand feet directly below.
Luckily, Gary was about a hundred feet ahead of the rest
of us and he dug in his axe,
looped a line once around himself and twice around the axe, timed K's slide perfectly, and then threw himself on his belly out onto
the ice slope, his reaching hand grabbing Kanakaredes's three fingers as slick
as a pair of aerial trapeze partners. The rope snapped taut, the axe held its place, man and mantispid swung two
and a half times like the working
end of a pendulum, and that was the end of that drama. K had to make it the
rest of the way to the glacier without an ice axe the next day, but he managed all right. And we now
know how a bug shows embarrassment—his occipital ridges blush a dark
orange.
Off the ridge at last, we roped up for the glacier but
voted unanimously to descend it by staying close to the east face of K2. The
earlier snowstorm had hidden
all the crevasses and we had heard or seen no avalanches
in the past seventy-two hours. There were far fewer crevasses near the face, but an avalanche could
catch us anywhere on the glacier. Staying near the face carried its own
risks, but it would also get us down the ice
and out of avalanche danger in half the time it would take to probe for
crevasses down the center of the glacier.
We
were two-thirds of the way down—the bright red tents of Base Camp clearly in
sight out on the rock beyond the ice—when Gary said, "Maybe we should talk
about this Olympus Mons deal, K."
"Yes,"
click-hissed our bug, "I have been looking forward to discussing this plan
and I hope that perhaps—"
We heard it then before we saw it. Several freight trains
seemed to be bearing down on
us from above, from the face of K2.
All
of us froze, trying to see the snowplume trail of the avalanche, hoping against hope that it would come out onto
the glacier far behind us. It came
off the face and across the bergeschrund a quarter of a mile directly above us and picked up speed, coming
directly at us. It looked like a white tsunami. The roar was deafening.
"Run!" shouted Gary and we all took off
downhill, not worrying if there were bottomless crevasses directly in front of us,
not caring at that point just trying against all logic to outrun a wall of snow
and ice and boulders rolling toward us at
sixty miles per hour.
I
remember now that we were roped with the last of our spidersilk—sixty-foot intervals—the lines clipped to our
climbing harnesses. It made no
difference to Gary, Paul, and me since we were running flat out and in the same direction and at about the same
speed, but I have seen mantispids move at full speed since that
day—using all six legs, their hands forming
into an extra pair of flat feet—and I know now that K could have shifted into high gear and run four
times as fast as the rest of us. Perhaps he could have beaten the avalanche
since just the south edge of its wave
caught us. Perhaps.
He did not try. He did not cut the rope. He ran with us.
The south edge of the avalanche caught us and lifted us
and pulled us under and
snapped the unbreakable spidersilk climbing rope and tossed us up and then submerged us again and swept us all
down into the crevasse field at the
bottom of the glacier and separated us forever.
Washington,
D.C.
Sitting
here in the secretary of state's waiting room three months after that day, I've had time to think about it.
All of us—everyone on the planet, even the bugs—have
been preoccupied
in the past couple of months as the Song has begun and increased in complexity and
beauty. Oddly enough, it's not that distracting, the Song. We go about our business. We work
and talk and eat and watch HDTV and make love and sleep, but always there
now—always in the background whenever one wants to listen—is the Song.
It's
unbelievable that we've never heard it before this.
No one calls them bugs or mantispids or the Listeners
anymore. Everyone, in every
language, calls them the Bringers of the Song.
Meanwhile, the Bringers keep reminding us that they did
not bring the Song, only taught us how to listen to it.
I don't know how or why I survived when none of the
others did. The theory is
that one can swim along the surface of a snow avalanche, but the reality was that none of us had the
slightest chance to try. That wide
wall of snow and rock just washed over us and pulled us down and spat out only me, for reasons known, perhaps, only
to K2 and most probably not even to it.
They found me naked and battered more than three-quarters
of a mile
from where we had started running from the avalanche. They never found Gary, Paul, or Kanakaredes.
The emergency CMGs were there within three minutes—they
must have
been poised to intervene all that time—but after twenty hours of deep probing and sonar
searching, just when the marines and the bureaucrats were ready to lase away the whole
lower third of the glacier if necessary to recover my friends' bodies, it was
Speaker Aduradake—Kanakaredes's
father and mother, it turned out—who forbade it.
"Leave them wherever they are," he instructed
the fluttering UN bureaucrats
and frowning marine colonels. "They died together on your world and should remain together within the
embrace of your world. Their part of the song is joined now."
And the Song began—or at least was first heard—about one
week later.
A male aide to the secretary comes out, apologizes
profusely for my having to
wait—Secretary Bright Moon was with the president—and shows me into the
secretary of state's office. The aide and I stand there waiting.
I've seen football games played in smaller areas than
this office.
The secretary comes in through a different door a minute
later and leads
me over to two couches facing each other rather than to the uncomfortable chair
near her huge desk. She seats me across from her, makes sure that I don't want any coffee or
other refreshment, nods away her aide,
commiserates with me again on the death of my dear friends (she had been
there at the memorial service at which the president had spoken), chats with me for another minute about how
amazing life is now with the Song
connecting all of us, and then questions me for a few minutes, sensitively, solicitously, about my
physical recovery (complete), my
state of mind (shaken but improving), my generous stipend from the government
(already invested), and my plans for the future.
"That's the reason I asked for this meeting," I
say. "There was that promise
of climbing Olympus Mons."
She stares at me.
"On Mars," I add needlessly.
Secretary Betty Willard Bright Moon nods and sits back
in the cushions. She brushes some invisible lint from her navy blue skirt.
"Ah, yes," she says, her voice still pleasant but holding some hint
of that flintiness I remember so well from our Top of the World meeting.
"The Bringers have confirmed that they intend to honor that promise."
I wait.
"Have you decided who your next climbing partners
will be?" she asked, taking out an obscenely
expensive and micron-thin platinum palmlog as if she is going to take notes herself to help facilitate this whim of mine.
"Yeah," I said.
Now
it was the secretary's turn to wait.
"I
want Kanakaredes's brother," I say. "His . . . creche brother."
Betty Willard Bright Moon's jaw almost drops open. I
doubt very much if she's reacted this visibly to a statement in her last thirty
years of professional
negotiating, first as a take-no-prisoners Harvard academic and most recently as secretary of state.
"You're serious," she says.
"Yes."
"Anyone else other than this particular
bu—Bringer?"
"No one else."
"And you're sure he even exists?"
"I'm sure."
"How do you know if he wants to risk his life on a
Martian volcano?" she asks, her poker face back in place. "Olympus
Mons is taller than K2, you know. And it's probably more dangerous."
I
almost, not quite, smile at this news flash. "He'll go," I say.
Secretary
Bright Moon makes a quick note in her palmlog and then hesitates. Even though
her expression is perfectly neutral now, I know that she is trying to decide whether to ask a question that she might
not get the chance to ask later.
Hell,
knowing that question was coming and trying to decide how to answer it is the reason I didn't come to visit
her a month ago, when I decided to do
this thing. But then I remembered Kanakaredes's answer when we asked him
why the bugs had come all this way to visit us. He had read his Mallory and he had understood Gary, Paul, and me—and
something about the human race—that this woman never would.
She
makes up her mind to ask her question.
"Why . . . ," she begins. "Why do you want
to climb it?"
Despite everything that's happened, despite knowing that
she'll never understand,
despite knowing what an asshole she'll always consider me after this moment, I have to smile before I give her the
answer.
"Because it's there."