"Mike Resnick - Between the Sunlight and Thunder" - читать интересную книгу автора (Resnick Mike)a swimming pool, two fine restaurants (I recommend the Topside), and the strangest-looking staff
you'd ever want to see. Each of them -- and there were a hell of a lot of them -- was bald and bearded; when we asked about it, Lazarus explained that they were members of a Pentecostal sect that thought shaving their heads but not their faces brought them a bit closer to heaven. September 20: We were still socked in with fog when I awoke, but I didn't feel like spending another day doing nothing -- even a high-quality nothing such as the hotel offered -- so I told Lazarus to meet me at 10:30 and we'd try to drive around a bit; Carol took one look out the window and told me that she was staying inside. When we got two miles away from the Montclair the air became crystal clear, and we realized that the mountains weren't covered by fog after all: what had happened was that a cloud had come to rest exactly atop the Montclair. We drove back, got Carol, and spent the rest of the day sightseeing in the mountains. We saw Cecil Rhodes' mountain home, and the Rhodes Museum, and World's View, and a reconstruction of an ancient village, and one of the world's more dangerous golf courses (hit the ball in the water and you get eaten by crocs; hit it in the trees and you get eaten by leopards; overshoot the green and you fall 11,000 feet to your death). We ate lunch at the Troutbeck Inn, then drove to some waterfalls where we had to climb part of a mountain and walk out on a very precarious ledge to see them (Lazarus pointed the way, then locked himself in the car and waited for us, convinced we would fall off the precipice), and finally returned to the hotel, which was still surrounded by its very own cloud. September 21: We left the Montclair and its cloud behind, and drove down the eastern side of the country to Mutare, easily the prettiest African city we've seen. Once there we turned off and went to La Rochelle, the magnificent estate of Lord and Lady Courtauld, who had willed it to Zimbabwe. It contains fourteen acres of the most beautiful gardens I've ever seen, with numerous little streams and wooden bridges connecting the various sections. >From there we drove to a tiny colonial hotel, the meticulously-kept flowers and greenery. Then we headed south for Masvingo and the Great Zimbabwe ruins, picking up a flat tire along the way; we drove the final 100 kilometers with no spare, and got a second flat just as we were pulling into the Great Zimbabwe Hotel. While Carol and I slept the sleep of the innocent, Lazarus earned his salary by hunting up some friends, finding an all-night gas station (unheard-of in all other African countries), and getting the car in shape before breakfast. September 22: Carol and I walked a mile from the hotel to Great Zimbabwe, the oldest and most impressive ruins in all of sub-Saharan Africa, and the structure that gave Southern Rhodesia its new name. This was a gold-trading society that existed about a millenium ago, and built a fortress with walls some 40 feet high. I spent about two hours photographing it and taking notes, as it will figure prominently in one of the books I'll be writing next year. Then, when I thought we were through, Lazarus showed up and told us that there was an equally impressive ruin we hadn't seen yet. Where, I asked. Up there, he said, pointing to a nearby mountain. So we spent another hour climbing up to the second ruin, and once I caught my breath I had to admit he was right: it's every bit as impressive as the one most people photograph (the so- called Great Enclosure), perhaps even moreso, considering that every one of its million or so stones had to be carried up the mountain. We drove back to Harare in the afternoon, checked into Meikles again (they weren't so sure about taking my voucher this time, but eventually they relented), and we spent our final night in Zimbabwe pigging out on a huge tray of food we ordered from room service. September 23: We drove to the airport in early afternoon and caught a plane to Lilongwe, the new capital of Malawi (formerly Nyasaland.) Upon arriving, we found the representative from Soche Tours, which had subcontracted the Malawi portion of our safari. "You'd better hurry," she said. "Your flight to Blantyre is about to leave." "We're not flying there," I said, showing her our itinerary |
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